If you live in an area that received snowfall this winter, you might be noticing circular brown patches like the ones in the photo as your your lawn tries to come back.
Read on to find out what is causing this and what you can do about it!
]]>Even though our favorite rodent at the other end of PA predicted 6 more weeks of winter, I really can't complain about our weather this winter. So far we only had one very significant cold snap and no big snowfall.
If you live in an area that received snowfall this winter, you might be noticing circular brown patches like the ones in the photo as your lawn tries to come back.
These are caused by snow mold. The mold can grow when the ground has not has a chance to freeze before a snowfall.
While the damage is seldom serious, it can be discouraging, particularly when we are looking forward to a beautiful green lawn after a long winter.
To help your grass come back if it has been affected gently rake the area to de-thatch and aerate the lawn.
This will promote drying and prevent further fungal growth. If the grass does not grow back, purchase a bag of grass patch which contains grass seed and fertilizer and apply to the affected area.
Be sure to keep the area watered until the new grass sprouts.
While snow mold can't necessarily be prevented, there are things you can do to minimize the damage in coming years:
I'll leave you with this beautiful photo of blooming spring bulbs. With the warmer temperatures we should see them blooming soon!
]]>We've had quite relatively mild winter here in PA. The warmer than normal temperatures have really given me a case of Spring Fever. I just can't wait to get out and plant.
Sadly, it's not quite time to start planting yet and I know that it is still a bit too early to remove the leaves in beds that beneficial insects are using for winter cover.
So what's a gardener to do?
Read on for my list of 5 things you can do now to get a jump on your spring gardening.
]]>For the last few weeks here in PA, the weather teases us with warm days followed by temperatures dipping back down to seasonal norms for the next few days and then things warm up again. The warm weather gives me Spring Fever - I just can't wait to get out and plant. But the returning cold makes me grumpy and I want to go back to hibernating under a warm quilt. It's been quite a temperature roller coaster of late, but hey, welcome to Pennsylvania.
Sadly, it's not quite time to start planting yet and I know that it is still a bit too early to remove the leaves in beds that beneficial insects are using for winter cover.
So what will I be doing? Here is my list of 5 things you can do now to get a jump on your spring gardening.
1. Take a Test (A Soil Test - That Is)
One of the most important things you can do to help your plants grow big and strong is provide the right food for them in the form of nutrients in the soil. And the best way to determine that is to have your soil tested. Yes, even if you are composter, checking your soil is a good idea.
While this may sound hard, it's very easy. Most states have a land grant university and that university usually sponsors a cooperative extension office in each county. Here in PA our university is Penn State and we have a Penn State Cooperative Extension office in most counties. These folks run educational programs as well as provide support to local farmers, nurseries, etc. They are one of the best places to pick up a soil test kit. You pay for the test when you pick up the kit, follow the directions to collect a soil sample and then send the kit off in the mail. In a few weeks the results will come back. The test looks for levels of Nitrogen, Phosphorus and Potassium as well as pH and the results will let you know how much of each you should add to your soil.
For do-it-yourselfers (and people like me who want instant results), there are test kits available in nurseries and on-line. Here is a link to one that is available on Amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/Luster-Leaf-1601-Rapitest-Soil/dp/B0000DI845/
Read the packaging carefully before you buy. Some of the kits only test for pH. You want the ones that test for Nitrogen, Phosphorus and Potassium.
I've used these kits at my home and plan to use one at our office because I want to do some planting there this year. They're not hard to use and I find them fun. But, I also love chemistry and fooling around with things like that. If you don't, talk to your local cooperative extension or contact them on-line (some of them will send you the kit in the mail if you don't live close to an office.)
By making sure that you have the right nutrients in your soil before you plant, your plants will have a better chance of thriving this gardening season!
2. Follow the Sun
Another extremely important thing for success in growing plants is the right amount of sunlight. Too much and some plants dry up in the heat; too little and you can have spindly plants struggling to survive.
So now is a great time to determine how much sunlight different parts of your yard receive throughout the day. Here are some guidelines to match what growers use on plant tags:
Full Sun: More than 6 hours of sun/day
Part Sun: 4-6 hours of sun /day
Part Shade: 2-4 hours of sun/day
Shade: Less than 2 hours of sun/day
3. Take Stock
On a warmer day, spend some time in your garage or garden shed getting organized. Here's a list of things you can do:
4. Create a Pruning Schedule
Again on a warmer day, take a walk around your yard and look at your existing shrubs. Make sure that you know what varieties you have and note if any need pruning.
Most shrubs can benefit from regular pruning to reduce size and thin out weak branches. It's important to prune at the right time of year. At my old house, I had 3 crape myrtles which would grow to almost 2 stories high by the end of summer. They require pruning in early spring while I waited to prune my rhododendrons until after they bloomed. One size does not fit all. Now is a great time to take stock of what you have and spend a few hours on your computer to find out the best time to prune. Then set up a list or note on your calendar so that you can do it yourself throughout the year or have a professional do it for you.
5. Decide on How Much Time You Want To Spend Maintaining Your Garden
Now is a good time to really think about how much time you want to spend maintaining your garden this year. Plant Buying Fever hits me every year. I can't resist buying new and interesting plants when I start visiting greenhouses in the spring. I love planting lots of containers and creating beautiful combinations only to find myself complaining when I have to water them all in July.
Deciding on how much time you will have and how much time you want to spend maintaining your garden is especially important if you have lots of summer vacation plans or are very busy with other hobbies. ( I love to horseback ride, bike ride and kayak in the summer).
If your time is limited, does that mean you can't have a beautiful yard and garden? Absolutely not! It just means being realistic about how much you want to maintain and planning out your plantings with low maintenance plants.
When I bought my previous home, there we lots of beds on the property and I had lots of time to garden. Life changed and so we ended up returning some of the beds to grass where it made sense. Being realistic about what you want and have time for and planning in advance can help to curb your 'Plant Buying Fever' when you go out to buy.
I hope I've given you a few things to do until it's warm enough to clean out beds and start planting. Don't worry - that time will be here soon enough.
Do you have a suggestion of things to do in the garden now while waiting for cold weather to pass? Please comment below - I'd love to hear your ideas.
Spring is getting closer and closer so the amount of questions popping up in on-line gardening groups is increasing. I love participating in these groups, trying to answer questions and/or give advice.
There are a few questions that keep coming up over and over and at least one that I never thought about.
Read on for the questions and my answers!
]]>There are a few questions that keep coming up over and over and at least one that I never thought about. So I thought I'd write this post to share my answers with all of you.
1. What are the main things that I need to know as a beginner gardener to be successful?
There are certainly lots of answers to this question, but for me how much sunlight the area you want to use as a garden receives is the first thing to consider when planting. I recommend that people go outside and monitor the area throughout the day to be sure of how much sunlight the spot receives and when ( morning, afternoon, all day, etc). Also take into consideration trees that will have leaves come spring.
While we can amend soil with nutrients and compostable material to change texture and drainage, its very hard to change the amount of sunlight an area receives. Short of taking down large trees or a building this is something that is hard to change and greatly impacts the health of our plants.
Take it from someone who lived in the woods for 20 years. While about an acre of our property was cleared, large trees at the edge of the woods grew and grew. Even areas that had 6-8 hours of sun became more shaded as the trees got taller. I love flowers like gladiolas and delphiniums, but there try as I might I just did not have an area that received enough sun for them to do well. I was left with spindly plants that were not healthy and eventually died.
When I gave in and planted the right plant in the right spot - my gardens flourished.
2. Since it has been so warm will the frost-free date be sooner this year?
This was a question that I never thought about. Frost-free dates are a guide for all of us who are planting annuals including vegetables. This is the date assigned to a given area after which it is unlikely that there will be a frost. I was always taught that where I live in zone 6 the frost-free date is generally around Mother's Day.
Turns out that frost-free dates on sites like the Farmer's Almanac are calculated as an average of the last several years of temperature data. Remember it is just a guide not a guarantee. To find the frost free date in your area you can go to https://garden.org/apps/frost-dates/ or https://www.almanac.com/gardening/frostdates
For me-I'm sticking to Mother's Day. It's always been pretty safe!
3. I'm planting my first garden - can someone review my plan?
I love people who plan. It's the best way to lay out what you're going to need and calculate things like how much many plants and how much mulch to buy. And it can prevent overbuying of plants if you stick to the plan. The one issue I saw with the plans I reviewed was how big they were!
I loved the enthusiasm but it's so easy to plant more that you can take care of - especially when you're just learning. If any of you have heard my story you know that I bought my last home when I had lots of time to garden. There were already lots of beds and I added more. I was an experienced gardener at the time and had the knowledge and time to take care of what I planted. Fast forward to my going back to working full time in a new career and wanting to explore other hobbies and now I had an overwhelming amount of work.
If you are just starting out my best advise to you is to start small. Last year I had enough sun at my new home to plant vegetables. Since this was my first vegetable garden I started out small, learned a lot and was very happy I did not do more that this as a first effort.
I hope these questions and answers have been helpful. If you have a question, please submit it to support@therelaxedgardener.com. I'll answer your email and also may use your question in a future post.
Think spring!
]]>
It's so dreary here in PA. I thought it might be a good time to share my insights from a few years ago when I decided to teach myself about orchids. So if you've got a case of the winter blahs maybe it's time for you to jump in and try growing orchids yourself.
And if you already have orchids, maybe treat yourself to a new one.
Read on to find out more about growing Orchids!
]]>A few years ago, during a particularly dreary PA winter, I really got the 'orchid bug' and decided to get one for my office. It really brightened up my space and made me smile and dream of spring gardening. Since then, I have moved to a new building and at least one of my windows gets too much sunlight in the summer for my orchids.
While I'm figuring things out, I'm again looking out at a dreary winter landscape. I thought it might be a good time to share my insights from when I decided to teach myself about orchids, so if you've got a case of the winter blahs maybe it's time for you to jump in and try growing orchids yourself.
And if you already have orchids, maybe treat yourself to a new one.
Read on to find out more about growing Orchids!
Another winter storm this past weekend has me cursing that groundhog at the other end of my state. Funny Facebook memes about him help but I am really yearning for spring.
The good news is that the Philadelphia Flower Show is back to its regular schedule of being held at the beginning of March. I'm not sure if I'll be able to attend but it's always a real inspiration.
When I think of the Flower Show, I automatically think of Orchids. There are always beautiful arrangements on display and so many to choose from for sale. Here's a photo from one of the displays from last year.
Add to this the fact that every time I go into our local Lowe's there are orchids on display and now I've been bitten by the 'orchid bug.'
Orchids are always something I have admired but have been afraid to try. So I decided to do a little research and see if I could grow them. I mean, after all, there are literally thousands of different varieties. There's got to be one that's right for me.
As I did my research, it became clear that the key to success with orchids is the same as with any other plant. Right plant, right spot. I also found that while orchids have a reputation of being difficult to grow, some are easier than others. I found that there are 3 varieties that are the best for beginners to try.
In general, all three like bright indirect sunlight. Be careful of too much light in summer months as this can burn the leaves. If the leaves starting to turn brown, move the plants back from the window during the day.
While our normal household temperatures suit orchids, a drop of 10 degrees between morning and night will help them to bloom.
Below I listed the 3 varieties that are recommended for beginners to try, along with their light, temperature, and watering and feeding requirements.
Light: Low, medium, or bright light. North or East facing window is best
Temperature: 50-75F
Water: Once per week or every other week
Feed: Monthly
Light: Medium to bright light. South or West facing window is best
Temperature: 50-70F
Water: Once per week or every other week
Feed: Monthly
Light: Low, medium, or bright light. North or East facing window is best
Temperature: 50-70F
Water: Once per week
Feed: Monthly in the spring and summer
Because orchids are subtropical to tropical plants, they like increased humidity. A minimum of 50-60% with 70-80% being ideal. Since most of our homes don't reach those levels and can be very dry, especially during the winter months, you will need provide your orchids with additional humidity. You can mist them as shown below.
But the best way is to set the pot on a humidity tray. Fill a shallow try with pebbles and add water. Place the pot on the stones. The water will evaporate and provide the plant with much needed humidity. Make sure the pot is sitting in a saucer so the roots don't sit in water as they will rot.
When watering your orchid be sure that the water is at room temperature. If you have public water, consider buying distilled water or using rain water as public water can have chemicals in it. Your pot should have holes and a base to catch any water that runs through. If you can, remove the pot from the saucer, place it in a sink and water your plant, allowing the water to run out of the pot. If you can't remove the sauce, water the plant in the sink and pour out any water that remains in the saucer. With many houseplants, we leave the water in the saucer so that the plant can take water as needed. Don't do this with orchids. Their roots should not sit in water or they will rot.
Use a water-soluble fertilizer recommended for orchids. 20-20-20 is best
So now that I had all of this information and I had decided where my orchid would live ( a Northerly facing window in my office), I went shopping. The easiest place for me to stop was my local home improvement store. While not always the best place to get plants, I had had some luck in the past.
There was quite a selection and, at first glance, most of the leaves looked green and healthy. However, when I look closer, I saw these little oval shaped white things on the leaves. This could have been the start of a mold or more likely mealy bugs. Either way, I was not going to take a chance.
So I decided to call a few garden centers that were a bit farther away. Everyone else must have been bitten by the indoor gardening bug too, because every place I called was out of stock.
However, my perseverance paid off and I found a few at of our local Amish/Mennonite greenhouses. I was also able to find fertilizer and a tray and river stones to create the ideal home for my new plant. Here it is with snow in the background!
Hopefully, with the information above, you'll feel comfortable to try caring for your own orchids. Comment below and let us know about your experiences.
]]>
A while back I wrote an article about 5 easy to care for houseplants that also clean the air. If you missed it, you can check it out here. One of our readers posed a great question. She asked whether any of these were toxic to pets. Unfortunately all except the spider plant were.
So she got me thinking that since so many of us have pets, it might be good to find some plants that we could grow indoors and that wouldn't be toxic to our furry friends.
Read on to find our more about 5 Houseplants that are considered safe for dogs and cats
]]>So she got me thinking that since so many of us have pets, it might be good to find some plants that we could grow indoors and that wouldn't be toxic to our furry friends.
The list that follows are plants that are technically safe for dogs and cats. However, it is best to keep plants out of reach as much as possible. Some animals love to chew on the leaves which can give them a tummy ache or possible digestive problems. If your pet does ingest a plant, keep an eye on them for any signs of a negative reaction. All animals are different. Just because a plant is labelled as non-toxic doesn't mean ingesting it is good for them.
Light: Indirect
Temperature: Cool
Humidity: High
To care for your fern during the winter months when many home are dry from heating, place the fern on a shallow tray filled with pebbles and keep adding water to the tray as need. Keep the soil damp to the touch and mist the fern once or twice a week.
Light: Indirect - For maximum blooms 10-12 hours of bright indirect sunlight during the day with 8 hours of darkness
Temperature: Moderate - 70-80F during the day and around 65F at night
Humidity: Moderate
African Violets are a bit fussy when it comes to watering. Be sure to use tepid water and don't water from the top. If you splash water in the leaves, you will see white spots develop. Instead place your plants in a tray or saucer and add about an inch of water. Wait about an hour so that the plant has time to soak up the water and then discard the rest. Water only when the top inch of soil feels dry to the touch.
Feed only with African Violet food according the package directions. Be sure to remove spent blooms so that new ones will appear.
Light: Indirect - Avoid Direct Sunlight
Temperature: Average Room Temperature ( 65-80F) Avoid air conditioners, cold windows and heat sources
Humidity: Average room humidity. Mist once/week
Parlor palms are perfect if you are looking to add a taller plant to your indoor space. It's one of the few palms like low light so you can place it almost anywhere. Water occasionally when the soil is dry to the touch.
Light: Bright Indirect Sunlight
Temperature: Average Room Temperature ( 65-80F)
Humidity: High
This plant gets it's name from the fact the leaves fold up in the evening resembling hands folded in prayer. Feed every two weeks with an all-purpose fertilizer from spring-fall. Keep soil moist but not soggy. In the winter, keep the soil drier but be sure the plant has enough humidity by placing it in a shallow dish with water. Set the plant on pebbles to keep it from sitting directly in the water.
Light: Low to Indirect
Temperature: 50-80F
Humidity: Average Room Humidity
The beauty of this plant is that it can grow in conditions where other plants would give up. Allow 50% of the soil to dry out before watering. Be sure to keep it out of direct sunlight or the leaves will turn brown.
If you've been avoiding adding houseplants to your home because of pets, I hope this list helps you add a bit of green to this winter.
If you do have pets and houseplants, what houseplants are you growing? How are you keeping your pets safe?
Comment below and tell us your stories. We'd love to hear from you!
]]>I see lots of people in gardening groups just itching to plant even though it's still cold outside where they live. Houseplants are great but some of us are looking for more. However, I found a way to add to my indoor gardening and have delicious herbs to use in my cooking.
Read on to find out how to grow herbs (and other plants) indoors quickly and easily.
]]>I see lots of people in gardening groups just itching to plant even though it's still cold outside where they live. Houseplants are great but some of us are looking for more. A few winters ago, I found a way to add to my indoor gardening and have delicious herbs to use in my cooking.
You see, some of my favorite plants to grow are herbs. Above is a photo of the herb plants I grow on my deck every summer. See all the trees in the background. They are the reason I grow herbs in pots on the deck. Many herbs need lots of sunlight. Something we are sorely lacking living here in the woods. The front of the deck is one of the few parts of my yard that gets full sun.
And although I would love to bring my herb plants indoors for the winter, we definitely don't get enough sunlight to help them thrive indoors.
So I have pretty much been enjoying the herbs I can grow in the summer and then buying what I need from my local grocery store in the winter.
Until my partner and I went out to lunch one day and saw this lovely indoor gardening wonder on the hostess table.
This is the Miracle Grow Aerogarden. If I had just seen this in a catalog or on-line skeptical me would probably not have bought it. But seeing it in person, actually working for someone who was not part of the company that produced it, made me very interested.
After researching these units a bit on-line I found that there were several sizes depending on how many plants you want to grow - 6, 7, or 9. The units come with a pack of pods that contain seeds already planted as well as the plant food you need for optimum growth. You simply add water and the food to the base, put the seed pods in the holes in the top of the base and program the unit for the types of plants you are growing.
The Aerogarden regulates the light, circulates the water and lets you know when to add the plant food. These features really appealed to my techie tendencies. You can even connect to some of the units by Wi-Fi. (That was a bit over the top - even for me.)
I did have some other questions though, such as what other seed packs were available and could I buy 'blanks' so I could choose my own seeds. I found that there were tons of options in seed kits like the one on the right. (This photo also helps you to see what the pods look like that come with the unit).
Some of the kits that are available include salad greens, different combinations of herbs, peppers, tomatoes and edible flowers. I also found that you can order 'blanks' and replacement sponges so that you can choose your own seeds.
I don't usually ask for stuff for my birthday - I like 'doing gifts' - like a trip to my local craft distillery or Longwood Gardens. But I loved the idea of this thing so much, I put it on my Amazon Wish List. I'm happy to say that my partner bought one for me. (He really is a great guy!) What a wonderful gift for a gardener during one of the most dreary months of the year.
The unit was super-easy to set up. Mine came with pods to grow basil, mint, thai basil, curly parsley, dill and thyme. The labels even tell you the heights of the plants so that you can arrange them from front to back - tallest to shortest. Here's a photo after about 1 week.
Some of the herbs are just starting to sprout under the little domes while others are a bit larger. I took the domes off of the larger ones at about this time and as the other plants grew above the labels I removed their domes as well.
Here's another photo taken today after 16 days of growth.
Winter can be tough on all of us including our houseplants.
So if you're yearning to do a bit of gardening, why not give your houseplants a spa day?
Read on for a few quick tips on the care you can give your plants now that will keep them healthy through the long winter months.
]]>Winter can be tough on all of us. While it's not been super cold here in PA this winter, It's great to be inside and out of the elements. Unfortunately home heating systems can really dry out our skin and hair. And if they're having that effect on you, imagine what they're doing to your houseplants.
So if you're yearning to do a bit of gardening, why not give your houseplants a spa day?
Houseplant leaves get dusty just like other items around the house. And simply dusting them with a feather duster just won’t cut it. (In fact, using a feather duster can transfer tiny insects and eggs from one plant to another – Yuk!)
The dust doesn’t just look bad, it can clog the pores of the plant leaves making it difficult for the plant to ‘breathe’. Dust also filters out the sunlight plants use for photosynthesis. And the dust and dirt can attract tiny insects.
So what’s a plant owner to do?
For plants with large smooth leaves, you can simply wipe the leaves with a damp cloth. And if insects have been a problem in the past add a bit of insecticidal soap like Neem's Oil Spray.
For plants with smaller leaves, take them to a sink and gently spray with a hand sprayer. Or you can put them in the shower and turn the water on using a gently spray setting.
In both cases, the water you use should be lukewarm – never hot or cold as this can shock the plant.
(The one exception to this are African Violets. They react badly to drops of water being left on their leaves. To remove dust from them, wipe their leaves with a slightly damp cloth or gently use a clean paintbrush reserved just for this task.)
While you're giving your plants this much needed moisture treatment, check for any dying leaves and trim those off. Also remove any dead leaves that may have fallen into the pot. Check the leaves for any insects and remove.
Take a look at your trailing plants. If they are getting leggy, trim them back. A good 'haircut' can allow the plant to put its energy into filling out from the center. Make your cuts at the junction of the leaf on a stem rather than in the middle of a stem. Shameless plug: our Relaxed Gardener Clippers shown here are perfect for the job. Click here to learn more.
Finally, look at the size of the plant in relationship to the pot. Eventually plants outgrow their pots. If you're not sure if a plant is ready for replanting, notice how quickly the soil dries out after watering. If it happens very quickly, it's time to repot.
]]>
Houseplants can really add to our indoor decor. But for many folks, growing them is not as easy as the gardening websites would have us believe. Yellow, brown or dropping leaves, insects, fungus, and general bad health can plague us all. Fortunately, most houseplant problems can be traced back to a few easy to solve causes.
Read on to find out how to cure what ails your houseplants.
]]>
Gardening websites and social media posts would have us believe that growing houseplants is easy. While this can be true, for some people that’s not the case. I’ve had several friends who bemoan their experiences and claim that they just can’t grow houseplants. The truth is that yellow, brown or dropping leaves, insects, fungus, and general bad health can plague anyone’s houseplants. Fortunately, most houseplant problems can be traced back to a few easy to solve causes.
Below are 5 ways to cure your houseplant woes and enjoy the beauty that healthy thriving plants can add to your home.
1. Right Plant Right Spot
I can't stress enough how important it is to put your plant in a spot where it gets the right amount of light. For some plants that can be lots of bright sunlight. If they don't receive enough light, they will struggle to grow and be spindly. For others, like this Cast Iron Plant, low light is best.
Plants that get too much sunlight can show browning at the tips of the leaves.
While it’s tempting to buy the plant that you think will look the best in a given spot, it’s really important to be sure that the plant you choose will thrive in that spot.
So before you buy, it’s important to decide where you want to put a plant or plants and then observe how much sun that spot receives. Then buy the plant that will work for that spot. How will you know? Most plants have labels indicating how much light the plant requires. (The tags should also let you know the optimal temperature for the plant and watering and feeding requirements.) If you've already purchased your plant, do a quick bit of research to find out the amount of light it needs and then move it to a spot that fits.
2. To Water or Not To Water
The thing that kills most houseplants is overwatering or underwatering. Both can cause leaves to turn yellow and drop. Each plant is different in how much water it needs. For example, succulents benefit from letting the soil dry out completely between waterings.
Other houseplants should be watered when the top layer of soil dries out. Be sure to check what each plant needs and water accordingly. It’s also important that the pots are well drained and that plants roots do not sit in water. If the roots sit in too much water they will begin to rot and, of course, that’s not a good thing.
3. Too Much of a Good Thing
While many of us appreciate our warm homes in the winter, our heating systems can be a detriment to our houseplants as they can cause the air to be very dry.
In addition, putting plants too close to heating registers can dry them out very quickly, so keep houseplants away from heat sources.
Some plants like this Boston Fern, benefit from misting as they can absorb additional moisture through the leaves.
Others like this African Violet will show leaf damage from misting but do benefit from humidity.
The easiest way to provide this is to put a layer of pebbles in a tray with a small bit of water. Be sure that the base of the pot does not sit in the water.
The easiest way to provide humidity for plants like African violets and orchids is to put a layer of pebbles in a tray with a small bit of water. Be sure that the base of the pot does not sit in the water as this can cause the roots to become water-logged and start to rot.
4. I Need More Room
As your plants grow, so do their root systems. Eventually they will become pot bound and need to be moved to a new pot. How do you know? If your plant takes up all of the water you give it and then wilts a short time later it’s probably pot bound.
To move the plant to a new pot, remove it from its current pot and put it in a new pot using potting soil. If the roots are circling, tease them gently so that they are pointing down before putting them in their new soil.
Be sure to use potting soil, not garden soil - which is meant for outdoors and is too heavy for indoor plants). For African Violets use soil labeled specifically for them.
Your plant will now be able to push its roots out into the new soil and grow bigger and healthier.
5. Pesky Pests
Plants that are under stressors such as too little sunlight or too much water can be susceptible to pests such as insects, mites, and fungus.
When purchasing new plants be sure to get them from a reputable garden center or greenhouse and quarantine them from your other plants when you get them home until you are sure they are pest-free.
The best way to avoid these pests is for plants to be getting the right amount of sunlight and water. Do not crowd plants and make sure that all plants have the right amount of air circulation.
If you find that your plant has pests, remove all affected dying leaves and do not compost. Quarantine the plant away from your other plants as much as possible. If you suspect mite and insects, you can get rid of them by wiping the leaves with a damp cloth. Treat leaves with insecticidal soap or Neem oil.
Neem oil sprayed on the leaves is great for getting rid of fungus and controlling most fungal and insect pests.
Following these tips should help you to keep your houseplants happy and healthy.
Do you have houseplants in your home or are you about to add a few to brighten your indoors?
Comment below and let us know about your houseplant successes. Or ailments and how you solved them.
]]>
Now that the days are slowly starting to get longer, I’m yearning for spring. I’m trying to find more winter hobbies, but I really don’t like the cold. And while I like organizing my house, office, car, etc as a way to get a good start to the new year, my fascination with this only lasts so long.
I find myself looking around my property and thinking about gardening. It’s much too cold here in SE PA to do much of anything outside, so what’s a gardener to do?
Well, garden planning is a great winter indoor activity. And this is a great time to plan our your beds and containers and order seeds to so that you can start growing plants indoors. If you’ve subscribed to any seed and plant catalogs, the good news is they start coming now.
Read on to find out how to start plants for your garden from seeds and get a jump on spring.
]]>I find myself looking around my property and thinking about gardening. It’s much too cold here in SE PA to do much of anything outside, so what’s a gardener to do?
Well, garden planning is a great winter indoor activity. And this is a great time to plan our your beds and containers and order seeds to so that you can start growing plants indoors. If you’ve subscribed to any seed and plant catalogs, the good news is they start coming now.
As with any other aspect of gardening that I’ve covered, if you are new to seed starting, it’s always good to start small. While the beautiful pictures in the catalogs are enticing and may make you want to order every variety you find, please resist the temptation.
Start with only a few varieties that are easy to cultivate. By keeping things simple, you will have the greatest success. This will give you a chance to really learn the techniques and pitfalls and tune your setup accordingly.
But what if you have grand plans for a huge garden? Try starting a few things from seed and buy the rest of your plants from a local greenhouse. You can expand your seed starting efforts each year as you gain more experience.
So how do you get started?
The first step is to have a plan for your garden. Know what you are going to plant and why. I discuss these first steps in my article 5 Tips for Easy and Successful Garden Planning.
After you decide what you are going to plant, choose which plants you’re going to grow from seed and either order the seeds from a catalog or buy the seeds at your local garden center.
Buying from a local center is a great idea because the staff generally knows which varieties will do well in your area.
Your main goal with planting seeds is to get the seedlings or plants ready to be transplanted outside once the weather is accommodating. Read your seed packet to make sure you know when you should start planting them inside and when they should be moved outside. This will differ depending on the area (gardening zone) you live in. Make a list of planting dates for each of the seeds you’ve purchase.
A typical rule of thumb is to start seeding 6-8 weeks before the last frost. Timing is important, but don’t fret if you start a little early. Keep your plants’ soil slightly moist and keep them warm and they will do just fine until it’s time for them to join the outside world.
Some plants such as beans and squash grow very fast, so there is no need to start them indoors. Read the package of seeds carefully to know which ones to start and which say direct sow which means to plant them directly outside.
From commercially available plastic grow trays to biodegradable plant starting pots, the choices and recommendations for seed starting containers are endless. The right containers are very important as you don't want them to be too big or too small. In general, choose a container that is at least 2-3 inches deep and about as wide. This will give you enough room to start your seeds without the worry of planting them too deep or too shallow.
Make sure to have a hole in the bottom for drainage. This is important to prevent over watering and root rot. If your home tends to be dry, commercially available seed starting containers are a great idea as many have lids to help maintain humidity around the new plants.
It’s best to start with a fresh, sterile soil mix. Don’t use potting soil used for houseplants or garden soil for this step. Also, don’t reuse potting mix – start fresh. Doing this ensures healthy, disease-free seedlings. Most potting mixes have little to no nutrients in them. The bag might say that it will feed your plants for up to 6 months, but to ensure you get the healthiest plants, add your own liquid fertilizer a few weeks after the seedlings have sprouted.
Before you start putting the soil into the container make sure you moisten the soil. You don’t want the soil dripping wet or the consistency of mud. You just want it to be slightly moist. This makes sure that the seeds have moisture right off the bat and it helps them to germinate. Moist soil also helps to nourish seedlings as they do not have their own established root system yet.
As an aside, this is also a good time to test the soil in the area where you will be planting your new plants. Soil composition is as important as watering and sunlight, so one of the most important things you can do to have a successful garden is to have your soil tested. Get a test kit from Amazon and do it yourself, have your local nursery test your soil, or go to your local extension office and pick up a soil test packet which is usually a container that you use to send some of your soil away to be tested. You are looking to test for levels of nitrogen, phosphorous and potassium as well as the soil pH. The do-it-yourself kits and the results you receive from a testing lab will usually include recommendations for the correct levels of each depending on what you are planting – flowers, vegetables, etc. You can then amend your soil as needed.
If your garden is snow-covered and/or the ground is frozen, be sure to set up a reminder on your calendar to get your soil test done as soon as the ground thaws.
Most seed packets will have the recommended depth for planting on the packet. But what if you saved seeds or were given seeds by a friend or neighbor?
A general rule is to plant the seed twice the depth as it is long. Now, what does that mean? Let’s make this easier to understand. Measure your seeds and multiply by 2. If your seed is ⅛ of an inch, you will plant it ¼ of an inch deep.
Water is essential for seeds and plants to grow. You do not want to over or under water your seeds as this will prevent them from germinating. Start with moist soil and water at least once a day. If you live in a drier climate, you may need to water twice a day. Check your soil to see if it is dry to the touch. If it is, add a little water.
I recommend using a seed starting container with a lid that will create high humidity. This is the ideal environment for starting your seeds. This is by far the easiest way I have found to achieve a high humidity environment.
Another great method is to place your seeds between two wet paper towels and place them in a sealed plastic container with a lid.
Most seeds germinate at temperatures between 68° F and 86°F. Once your seeds have sprouted, keep them around 75°F. This will ensure that they remain healthy and continue to grow.
If you tend to keep your house a bit on the cool side, a warming mat like the one shown below will keep your seeds warm until they have sprouted.
Seeds do not normally need fertilizer while they are germinating. However, once they sprout and become seedlings, a weekly fertilizer may be needed to help them grow a strong, healthy root system. Looking at the package your seeds came in or a quick Google search will help you to understand the specific needs of your seedlings.
Some seeds germinate better in the dark and some need a moderate amount of light to start the germination process. Reading your seed package will let you know what your seeds need.
Once they have sprouted, all seedlings need light. Often, natural light from windows will not be enough, especially during the winter. You may need to use a grow light to provide enough light for the seedlings to grow and mature.
Your seed package should provide you with information on how much light your plants will require.
Seeds and plants need air to grow and thrive. Adding a fan to your set-up will help the air to circulate more and can also prevent a seedling disease called damping-off. Keeping the air around your seedlings moving will help them thrive and become healthy sturdy plants.
Hardening off your seedlings means getting them ready to plant outside. Start by taking your seedlings outside for an hour the first day and add an hour each day for seven days. This will get them used to the environment they will be growing in. After a week, they will have been outside for 7 hours at a time, and now should be ready to transplant to their permanent location.
During the first few days, provide your seedlings shelter when they are outside. Avoid direct sunlight and windy conditions. Allow them time to strengthen and become accustomed to the outdoors. A small temporary greenhouse like the one below works well for this task.
I also use one of these to harden off plants I buy at the greenhouse before planting.
Keep records of which plants germinate well and which don’t. Watch your plants grow throughout the season, take photos and note which ones you want to plant again. Use these records next winter as you do your garden planning.
Growing plants from seeds can be extremely rewarding. Watching your seeds grow and become healthy plants that bear beautiful flowers to decorate your home or vegetables that you can eat is a real treat.
Happy Seed Starting!
]]>As the cold temperatures are here for many parts of the country, it might seem a strange time to think about what to plant this spring. But this time of year is a great time to work on planning your garden.
Good garden design starts with thinking before digging.
Read on for my 5 Tips for Successful Garden Planning.
Then curl up by the fire with a few plant and seed catalogs, pen and paper and your favorite beverage and start dreaming of spring.
]]>As the cold temperatures are here for many parts of the country, it might seem a strange time to think about what to plant this spring.
But this time of year is a great time to work on planning your garden.
Good garden design starts with thinking before digging.
Garden design takes time.
It's too late to plan your garden when you're standing in the nursery eyeing every new plant that tempts you. Spending some time planning during the off-season will help to ensure success later.
To help you I’ve put together 5 Tips for Successful Garden Planning. Stick with me here and you'll be saving yourself a lot of time and a considerable amount of money.
Plant selection should be one of the last things you consider, or you may be overwhelmed trying to create a garden design to accommodate the dozens (or hundreds or even thousands) of plants you crave.
So curl up by the fire with a few plant and seed catalogs, pen and paper and your favorite beverage and start dreaming of spring.
Do you want to grow vegetables or herbs?
Would you like a cutting garden or will your garden be a place to entertain family and friends?
How much time and effort do you want to spend keeping your garden looking good?
Once you have an idea of how you are going to use your garden, take an objective look at the site before you come up with your garden design. This very important in determining which plants and trees you use to achieve the desired effect.
You know what you want to use your garden for, what you are working with and what resources you can devote to it. Now, what do you want it to look like?
Formal or informal? Wild?
Should it complement your house?
Do you want it to flow with the natural landscape?
Do you favor soft pastels or bold tropicals?
Before you buy that first plant, you have to know what your planting zone is. Without that knowledge, you can end up ordering all sorts of wonderful looking plants and shrubs only to find that they are not suitable for your planting zone and they will die.
You will have spent time and money needlessly.
If you're buying by catalog or online, every plant and seed catalog or online merchant should show a planting zone map and each plant depicted should have an indication of the zones in which that particular plant (or tree, etc.) will thrive.
Make a list of the plants you like and group them by color, texture and form. (You can search on-line, Pinterest, or mail order catalogs.) Also chart them by season of bloom and/or interest. Consider both flowers and foliage. There are more and more plants being bred with colorful foliage that will provide interest in the garden all season.
If you are planting for low maintenance, consider perennials as they come back year after year.
Be sure to include some large anchor plants that will look good all year. These are usually shrubs and often evergreens. Most small to average gardens can only accommodate 1 or 2 trees or shrubs, but they are important for providing the good bones of the garden. You want to choose wisely at the beginning. Trees and shrubs can be very difficult and heavy to move around.
Finally, if you’re feeling artistic, draw out your new garden. Measuring the spot is always a good idea. Some people like to use graph paper. Other prefer to make a rough estimate of how many plants they will need and fill in later if they don’t have enough.
Congratulations! You're ready for Spring Plant Shopping and Planting!
Stay Warm and Happy Planning!
]]>EDITOR'S NOTE: The winter months are upon us. And now that the holidays are over and spring is a few months away, there's not much to do in the garden. So what's a gardener to do?
Well, our resident blogger Paula Marolewski, really enjoys the birds that visit throughout the winter. Please enjoy Paula's article with some helpful tips to get birds to flock to your feeders.
]]>
EDITOR'S NOTE: The winter months are upon us. And now that the holidays are over and spring is a few months away, there's not much to do in the garden. So what's a gardener to do? Well, our resident blogger Paula Marolewski, really enjoys the birds that visit throughout the winter. Please enjoy Paula's article with some helpful tips to get birds to flock to your feeders.
I can’t get enough of birds in the garden during these winter months!
Which always brings up the question: What should you put out to keep your feathered friends happy?
The number one answer is black-oil sunflower seed, either in the shell or hulled. Just about every backyard bird loves sunflower seed and will clean you out repeatedly. You can toss it on the ground, put it in tray feeders, or fill tube feeders with it. Hulled seed is neater, since you won’t have shell debris to clean up. It also attracts some birds you might not expect, such as bluebirds.
Next up in my personal favorites list is shelled peanuts. Woodpeckers, titmice, nuthatches, chickadees, jays, and plenty of other birds adore peanuts. Other nuts, such as walnuts or almonds, can also be used. I offer peanuts in two types of feeders: a tube feeder, which the woodpeckers particularly like to use, and in small trays for the tiny backyard birds.
Nyjer seed is great for attracting finches – but if you are worried about the expense, consider sunflower seeds: my goldfinches go through gallons of hulled sunflower seed each winter.
Another staple in my bird buffet is suet. The woodpeckers can’t get enough of it! You can buy suet blocks, or you can make your own – there are dozens of easy recipes online. If you make your own suet, or if you crumble up store-bought suet, you don’t even need to buy a feeder. Simply press the suet onto a branch or on pine cones and hang up your “all natural” feeder.
This year, the suet I am putting on a branch is disappearing much faster than the suet in the feeder I bought. The woodpeckers seem to feel much more at home on the branch, and it is their preferred feeding station.
Okay, if you’re not squeamish (as I am), consider … bugs. Such as mealworms. Remember that a lot of birds – bluebirds, titmice, nuthatches, etc. – are insect-eaters by preference. Personally, I can’t get past the ick-factor!
There are other options, too, such as corn, millet, and safflower. Fruit can also be put out if the weather is warm enough.
Whatever you choose, I hope that you have time to watch the birds flocking to your feeders.
]]>For most us, resolutions don't really work. Studies have shown it. While stating what you want to see happen in your life is always a good idea, many times things don't change. But in 2018 I found a way to achieve at least some of the goals I set for 2018.
Read on to find out the 5 things I did to Turn Resolutions into Reality
]]>For most us, resolutions don't really work. Studies have shown it. While stating what you want to see happen in your life is always a good idea, many times things don't change. I am a big believer in setting goals but have always had issues making them a reality. Life is busy and does get in the way. But 2018 was a game-changer for me as far as achieving the goals I had. Did I achieve all of them? No, but I did achieve some and in the process found a way to turn my resolutions into reality.
Read on to find out the 5 things I did to Turn Resolutions into Reality
1. Set Time Aside to Reflect.
I like to go somewhere quiet away from my usual surroundings. A coffee shop, the library, a park bench.
First take a look at where you are. I take time to write down what was good about the previous year - what I did achieve. Then what I wanted to achieve but did not.
Next decide on what you want to achieve in the coming year - how you want things to look at this time next year. Be really descriptive and paint pictures in your mind. Imagine the balance on your credit card at zero, working for your favorite rescue two days/week or taking the trip you've always dreamed of.
2. Know Your Why
It's easy to list things you'd like to do or see happen but without a clear why it's hard to keep going when life gets in the way. Having a clear Why written down with each goal can remind you why you started on this path in the first place and keep you motivated.
3. Plan a Reward
My significant other lamented one time that it seemed like the minute we achieved one goal we were on to the next. He was so right! It is important to take time to stop and celebrate the wins or life can feel like one giant hamster wheel. So for each goal be sure to plan a reward and follow through on it when you achieve your goal.
4. Make Time to Continually Track Your Progress
If you don't look at your goals and your progress on a regular basis things will fall through the cracks and you will end up frustrated at this time next year. This happens to all of us. It's just too easy to fall back into old habits. Days turn into weeks, weeks into months and before we know it, the year is almost over. Instead of waiting til year's end to review where you are, review on a weekly basis. Doing this helps you to adjust throughout the year. Write down what worked well, what didn't, and what the plan is for the next week.
5. Decide How You Are Going to Track Your Progress.
This is where everyone gets tripped up. It's easy to write down your goals and hope they happen. What is not easy, is looking at those goals every day and taking small actionable steps toward achieving them.
I struggled with this for years. I tried all kinds of on-line and off-line systems. What I found is that while I love technology, trying to track my goals via some type of software or app was not for me. I love to write (with a pen) or draw and find that writing helps to solidify thoughts and steps in my brain. I also needed somewhere to write quick notes throughout the day and a calendar that was right in front of me on my desk.
I finally found what I was looking for in Michael Hyatt's Full Focus Planner. Michael is a well-known CEO and now writer, speaker and coach. He constantly fine tunes his system for focusing on and achieving goals. (NOTE: I am not affiliated with Michael nor do I receive any compensation for recommending him or this planner. This is simply what is working for me.) Here is a link to find this planner: http://fullfocusplanner.com
The planner comes in bound journal. Each planner covers 90 days so it works well with the principles I learned about in the book The 12 Week Year. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CU9P31K. The premise of this book is that breaking a calendar year up into quarters and working to achieve quarterly goals has shown to yield more success. While you may have 10 goals for the year, studies have shown that you can only effectively work on 3-5 of them at a time. Setting quarterly goals and focusing on them for 90 days helps us to achieve things more quickly.
The other reason I like the planner is that Michael has recorded a series of short videos (each is less than about 10-15 min) to show you how to use the planner and work effectively on your goals.
The choice of what to use to track your goals is highly personal and what works for me might not work for you. The important things is choose something and adjust as needed.
I hope these tips get you started on your way to achieving your goals in 2021.
Happy New Year!
]]>Most of us have a favorite season of the year. But part of the joy of gardening is that, as we actively engage with nature in the intimacy of our own yard, we can find beauty in every season.
Read on as Paula shows us the beauty she finds in every season of her garden.
]]>
Most of us have a favorite season of the year. But part of the joy of gardening is that, as we actively engage with nature in the intimacy of our own yard, we can find beauty in every season.
Spring for me starts when “pale green points” (a description I love from The Secret Garden by Frances Hodgson Burnett) start pushing up through the soil. The days may still be cold, but my heart is warmed as I see my garden waking up.
Soon, the crocuses burst forth in a royal display of purple, gold, and white. The elegant cups of a hundred daffodils become trumpets heralding the coming of spring. And sprinkled among my “formal” garden beds and in every corner of the yard, wild violets and dandelions share their joy at the turn of the season.
Then comes summer, when the garden beds overflow with color. I sip iced tea in the shade of a patio umbrella and fall in love all over again with the never-ending display of marigolds and zinnias and my other annuals. My perennials make their briefer statement with fanfare, such as my orienpet lilies (a cross between oriental and trumpet lilies), which stand five feet tall and boast huge blooms that fill the air with a heavy, rich fragrance.
In the fall, my favorite backyard birds return to the feeders that I put out each autumn, and I have fun with displays of bizarrely-shaped gourds and fat, round, orange pumpkins. The gold finches visit my seven-foot Autumn Glory rudbeckia to pick the seeds from every dried, brown flowerhead. I collect fat, round seeds from canna lilies – not to plant next year, but simply to feel the pleasure of rolling them in the palm of my hand.
And finally, the winter. The stark simplicity of snow is brightened by a flurry of wings in my yard as my feeders get emptied with remarkable rapidity each day. Occasional ice storms transform the yard into crystalline splendor. Frost decorates my fence with delicate lace, then transforms into wisps of silent, curling steam at the touch of the morning sun.
Now, take these images and think about your life. There are many seasons in our lives. We have springtime where new opportunities are born and thrive. We enjoy the plenty and bounty of summer. We experience the cool of autumn where some things come to an end. And there are the days of winter where life can seem cold and dormant.
But just as every season of the year has a beauty all its own, so every season of our lives brings things to appreciate and opportunities to grow. And, just like the seasons of the year, we are never “stuck” where we are – the seasons turn and change. We will experience many springtimes throughout our lives. Many summers. Many autumns and winters. As we learn to embrace each season in our life as it comes, we find ourselves developing wisdom and overflowing with gratitude. We find that there is truly beauty in all seasons.
]]>It's no secret that I like a good cocktail. I really don't like soda. In fact, I don't like super sugary drinks (including ones with alcohol) at all. And while I try to drink a lot of water, it's well - boring. So I look forward to something more interesting. However, there are times when I don't feel like drinking alcohol. I'm always looking for something fun and festive (including non-alcoholic options) to drink when I'm at a party or out to dinner.
Since the holiday party season is upon us, I thought I'd share 5 of my favorite drink options. Read on to find out what I'm drinking this holiday season!
]]>Since the holiday party season is upon us, I thought I'd share 5 of my favorite drink options.
This is one of my favorite drinks to have with dinner either at home or when I'm out and don't feel like drinking. And it looks festive enough so that you can feel like you're joining in the fun.
To make this for yourself just load up a glass with lots of ice. Add as much cranberry juice as you like. Then fill with club soda. Garnish with a lime wedge and just for fun add a few whole cranberries if you have them.
When I order this in a bar or restaurant, I find that they add too much cranberry juice for my taste so I order it as Club Soda with a Splash of Cranberry and a Lime. This usually gets me the taste I'm looking for.
I find that I really don't miss the alcohol in this one at all. I found the recipe on Pinterest and adjusted it to my taste. I first served this when we had a friend over who doesn't drink. He loved it so much we took the fixings to a another dinner that weekend and it got rave reviews.
Tear up 5-7 fresh mint leaves and put in the bottom of a tall glass. Add three slices of lime and a tablespoon of agave syrup. Muddle. Add ice and fill the glass with club soda. Garnish with mint and lime.
NOTE: As I'm sure you can imagine, both of these drinks are wonderful on a hot summer day!
I really love martinis. I've tried quite a few recipes but this one that I first tasted while on vacation is truly my favorite. I love the dryness and how it pairs well with a good rich fatty appetizer. And while my favorite martinis are made with vodka, you can also make this with gin.
Add ice to a shaker. Add 1/2 oz dry vermouth. Shake well to coat the ice with vermouth. Then strain and discard the vermouth. Next add 2.5 oz of your favorite vodka (my favorite is Luksusowa) and shake. Strain into a glass and add your favorite chilled olives.
I first tried a version of this not in New Orleans (where it was invented) but in a local town near my home in PA. We were doing a fall day trip and enjoyed this when we stopped for an early dinner. I love drinking these in the fall and winter because they have such a warming effect. They are not always easy to order because not all bars and restaurants will have Absinthe or Herbsaint which is used to coat the glass.
There are lots of sazerac recipes on the web (lots of discussion about changing the original recipe). Below is a link to the Official Sazerac Recipe and the history of the drink:
http://www.sazerac.com/cocktail.aspx
The version I was served used Bulleit Rye Whiskey. Also their version was served over a rock with an orange twist and a maraschino cherry. While it is not the purist version, it is how I still enjoy my Sazeracs at home.
This is my go to drink for holiday parties. Unless the host of a party is really into bartending, I don't ask for anything complicated. As I said earlier, I really don't like soda or other sugary drinks including lots of cranberry juice as a mixer.
So to keep things simple I just ask for a vodka on the rocks with a lime or lemon slice or twist. I do like my vodka nice and cold and the lime or lemon adds a nice hint of citrus. I can easily sip on these all night.
I hope this gives you some new fun beverages to try as you enjoy the holiday season.
]]>
The holiday season is in full swing. While this can be a happy time, it can also be very stressful. The pressure to find the perfect gift, have a beautifully decorated home and bake the most amazing cookies can be overwhelming. Your list of 'shoulds' can be a mile long. And social media can sure add to that pressure.
And what if you're just not feeling it? That can make things even more stressful. in this blog post I'm going to share my tips for navigating the holidays whether you're feeling festive but overwhelmed or you're just not in a fa-la-la-la-la kind of mood.
Read on to find out how I'm navigating the holidays!
]]>
And what if you're just not feeling it? That can make things even more stressful. in this blog post I'm going to share my tips for navigating the holidays whether you're feeling festive but overwhelmed or you're just not in a fa-la-la-la-la kind of mood.
First, decide how you want to spend the season. I mean really decide. If you have a life partner, sit down and chat with them about what you'd like to do. Maybe you want to go all out. Maybe you want to do nothing. Or something in between.
While in years past my partner and I have gone all out with decorating and gifts, this year we were just not feeling it. We decided not to decorate and not to buy each other gifts.
What I am saying is that you get to choose what's best for you and your family at any given time.
Really look at what you're doing. Do you need to bake 7 different kinds of cookies? How about 2 or 3? Do you need garlands on all of your windows or would some simple flameless candles in each window be enough? Sometimes we get stressed by adding and adding. (I am so guilty of this). Sometimes more is just more.
Once you've made a decision, be okay with it. It's just human nature to watch what everyone else is doing and then feel bad because you aren't doing the same. During the holiday season, I'll be going to a party at my friend's home and I know that the house will be decorated beautifully. My friend just loves going all out. Instead of beating myself up for not doing the same, I'm going to enjoy all of her work and be glad I won't have as much to take it down and put it all away after New Year's.
Next, prepare. If you do have family obligations that you're not too happy about, reframe them. Instead of saying "I have to go to Aunt Marge's" try saying to yourself "I'm choosing to go see Aunt Marge. She's a bit wacky, but I know she appreciates our visit." If you don't love Christmas at your in-laws, try to figure out what might make it fun.
Several years ago, my partner's grandmother died right before Thanksgiving. Of course, everyone was sad. So I decided to take coloring books and markers with me. After dinner, while the boys were watching football, all the ladies sat at the dining room table and colored. It was a fun way to take our minds off the sadness.
Sometimes we get in a rut doing what we've 'always done'. What can you do to change things up and make them more fun?
If you decide to stay home on Christmas, surround yourself with things you love and plan what you're going to do. We don't get a lot of time off so on Christmas day we're giving ourselves the gift of rest. Sleeping in, cooking a great Christmas brunch and having another couple over to enjoy it with us. We'll probably spend the rest of the day watching movies and napping. I've already shopped for what we are going to have for dinner (yay Costco). So Christmas night we'll cook up a nice dinner and enjoy just being together. We're keeping it flexible and giving ourselves permission to chill.
Whatever you decide, I hope that these tips help you to make the holidays your own and find some time for peace and relaxing.
Happy Holidays
]]>The holidays are upon us and for many that means putting up a Christmas tree. Choices abound - live, fresh cut, or artificial. While I have friends that swear by their artificial trees, I just haven't been able to find one I really like. Year after year we keep coming back to a nice, fresh cut Douglas Fir.
While the cleanup of dropping needles is never enjoyable, there are things you can do to prolong the life (and your enjoyment) of this special holiday tradition.
Read on to find out how!
]]>For those of you who have been following this blog for a while, you know I alway talk about putting the right plant in the right spot for a successful garden. This is also true for your Christmas tree. The thing that shortens the 'life' of your freshly cut tree is drying out. So when you are deciding where to put the tree, try to keep it away from heating registers and direct sunlight. If you can set the temperature of that room to a few degrees cooler that can also help. You can also add a humidifier to add extra moisture to the air.
Before heading out to get your tree grab a tape measure and measure the height and width of the area where you plan to put the tree. I am terrible at just looking at something and knowing if it will fit. Also check the width of the doorways to be sure that nice plump tree you choose will make it into the room.
Lastly, get out your tree stand and add water so that you can put up the tree immediately when you get home.
We live near a tree farm that takes you into the fields and cuts the trees for you. Or you can choose one of their already cut trees. Just because you are at a place like this don't assume that the already-cut trees were just cut that day. Be sure to ask how long ago the tree was cut and check for browning and needle drop. Ask the staff to make a fresh cut on the base. The tree absorbs water through capillaries. When there is wound (from being cut) it will seal the wound with sap and the tree can't absorb any water. This happens in about 6-8 hours. A fresh cut on the base gives you an area where the capillaries are open.
If you plan to bring your tree home on the roof of your car or van, remember that the wind can dry out the tree during the trip. Have the tree farm wrap the tree in plastic to prevent this.
As I said in #2, the tree will close up capillaries in 6-8 hours after the last cut so be sure to put it in the stand and add water immediately.
If this just is not possible, be sure to make a fresh horizontal cut just before putting it up.
The most important thing you can do to keep your tree fresh is to be sure it has enough water. We check our tree first thing in the morning, when we get home from work and last thing before we go to bed at night. Many people suggest additives ( my boyfriend swears by adding crushed aspirin to the water when we first bring the tree home) but studies have shown that these don't make much difference. The trick is keep water in the tree stand so that the base does not dry out.
I hope following these simple tips keeps your tree fresh and green through the holiday season.
]]>Finding the Perfect Gift can be Hard... Let us make it Easy
Read on for Great Gift Ideas for the Gardeners in your Life!
]]>Maybe they've enjoyed working in their gardens for as long as you can remember. Or maybe now they are just finding the time to discover this new hobby.
Help them to keep enjoying gardening with tools that are designed to be comfortable and reduce hand and wrist strain.
Our Relaxed Gardener Watering Wand has a thumb-operated on/off switch which also controls water flow. No more hand strain from trigger-operated nozzles. This wand also has 8 spray pattern settings so it can take the place of most garden hose nozzles. With this wand you can not only water hanging baskets but also wash the car, mist tender plants and clean off the patio. Click Here to Find out More
Our Garden Tool Set contains the basic hand digging tools all gardeners need - a cultivator, trowel and transplanter. These tools have soft rubber handles and lightweight aluminum heads that make them super-comfortable for continued use. Click Here to Find out More
Our Garden Pruner Set is a set of two garden scissors ( one with straight blade and one with curved blade) that can be used for light trimming and pruning of delicate flowers, herbs and houseplants. They are designed with comfortable handles, thumb operated lock and gently spring mechanism to reduce hand strain. Click Here to Find out More
And we've combined all of these tools into a convenient Essential Garden Tool Gift Set. Click Here to Find Out More
Buying a new home is exciting...and stressful. There's so much to do and so many things to buy. And taking care of a new yard can seem daunting.
Give the gift of quality home gardening tools to get them started on the right foot.
The Wrought Iron Garden Hose Holder is an attractive addition to any home. Easy to install. Holds up to 150' of garden hose. Handcrafted in the U.S.A so it's built to last. Click Here to Find Out More
Our Watering Wand is a versatile outdoor watering tool. Its compact 15" length and 8 spray patterns means that it can be used for a wide variety of tasks from watering hanging baskets to washing your favorite pet. Click Here to Find out More
And our Garden Hand Tool Set includes the basic hand digging tools that all gardeners need. Click Here to Find Out More
Finally we've put all of these essential tools into our Ultimate Garden Tool Set. This set is packaged and shipped in an easy-to-wrap carton. Click Here to Find Out More
Indoor gardeners have a variety of interests. Maybe you know a:
Anyone of these indoor gardeners will appreciate a gardening gift from you!
Our Garden Pruner Set is perfect for delicate trimming tasks like pruning houseplants or herbs. Click Here to Find Out More
Our Kitchen Compost Bin is an attractive bin for all eco-conscious gardeners to use to store their compostable veggie and fruit peels and houseplant trimmings before taking them to the compost bin. Click Here to Find Out More
Our Garden Hand Tool Set is a set of basic gardening hand tools that work great indoors and out. Click Here to Find Out More
They may not have a big yard or huge vegetable garden but they are concerned about their world.
They don't want to fill our landfills with veggie and fruit scraps in plastic bags that can be put back into the environment. Perhaps they live in an area with community sponsored composting.
Give them the gift of an attractive Kitchen Compost Bin to store their compostable fruit and veggie peelings until they can take them to the compost pile.
Check out our entire Gifts for Gardeners Collection Here
]]>
A few years ago, I decided to take a more relaxed, stop-and-smell-the-pine-trees approach to the holidays. And I’m about to share one of my secrets to a more relaxing holiday season – stressing less about shopping and gift giving.
Read on while I share my 5 Tips for Stress-Free Holiday Gift Giving
]]>The holidays are upon us. And for all of the bright lights and happy songs, they can also be very stressful. Adding to already busy schedules comes decorating, cooking, parties and shopping for just the right gifts. So many times I find myself just rushing through the holidays in an effort ‘to get things done’ and by New Year’s realize that I really did not enjoy anything.
A few years ago, I decided to take a more relaxed, stop-and-smell-the-pine-trees approach to the holidays. And I’m about to share one of my secrets to a more relaxing holiday season – stressing less about shopping and gift giving.
It’s so tempting to run out to the stores and go on a hunt for the elusive ‘perfect gift’. But too many times I run out of time and end up grabbing something at the last minute.
So instead, I decided to make the whole experience much easier and much more enjoyable to me. And now I’m going to share my approach with you. I hope this helps relieve your shopping and gift-giving stress!
Here are my 5 Tips for Stress-Free Holiday Gift Giving:
1. Be Like Santa and “Make a List”
It’s tempting to make a spreadsheet on your computer, do a list on an app on your phone or hastily scribble something down on a scrap of paper before running into the shopping mania.
But this year why not make creating a list a Christmas experience. Put on some comfy clothes. If you have a fireplace, light a fire. Turn on relaxing music. Maybe even Christmas music to get you into the spirit. Make a cup of your favorite tea or pour a glass of wine and sit down with paper and pen.
Yes, paper and pen. So why paper and pen? Because studies have shown that writing or drawing by hand unlocks creativity much more than typing on a computer. I happen to love really great pens and markers. If you have a favorite grab yours now. The key here is to make the task of making your list as fun and enjoyable as possible. So for this step just write down the names of everyone that you want to purchase a gift for this holiday season. Below is an example of a gift planner you can create for yourself.
2. Follow Santa's Lead and "Check it Twice"
Next go back through the list and next to everyone’s name put the amount you want to budget for their gift. I know this is hard to do. But how stressful is it when you get those credit card bills in later January and see how much you overspent? By setting the budget for each person you can be realistic about much you can spend and relieve your own stress.
3. Get Personal
Next, close your eyes and imagine the first person. Think about
Then open your eyes and next to each name write 3 interests or hobbies that you came up with. Do this for every person on your list.
For some people on your list this might be easy. For others not so much. If you feel the need to buy something for your daughter’s boyfriend but really don’t know him that well, perhaps check out his Facebook page or Instagram feed. For example, if you looked at my Facebook page some very obvious things will pop up like my love for my horse and dog and my interest in gardening. Other not so obvious likes include great food, dining out, vacationing at the beach, and the belief that most problems can be solved by a great martini.
4. Brainstorm Three Gift Ideas.
Time to get creative. Based on what you wrote down about each person’s interests, write down 3 gift ideas and try to go beyond the obvious. Let’s take me for example – you now know I like horses. But I really don’t need one more kitchy horse statue or T-shirt. This would be the easy way out.
It’s time to really think about the person you are gifting for what they could really use or would enjoy. You may know that horses are expensive so someone like me would appreciate a gift card to my local tack shop. If this feels too impersonal, what about adding a certificate for spending an afternoon together going on an outing that includes a trip to the tack shop to use the gift card? Here are a few more ideas to help you put a unique spin on your gifts.
5. Shop til You Drop (NOT)
Finally add where you plan to purchase your item to your list. This way you can plan your trip or on-line ordering experience to take care of everything at once. Here are a few tips to make your in-store or on-line shopping experience a breeze.
By taking some quality time to think through your shopping list and make a plan you can turn your holiday shopping from one more chore to an enjoyable experience.
]]>
My garden bed has been put to sleep for the winter, but my indoor garden is as vigorous as ever! Most of that indoor garden is composed of succulents – plants that have thickened or fleshy parts such as the jade plant. I consider succulents to be a splendid addition to the indoor garden for three fantastic reasons.
1. Succulents Are SquishyOkay, I admit it: I’m a very tactile person. I get in trouble at museums because I always want to touch things. Smooth or rough, fine-grained or bumpy, textures fascinate me. Succulents satisfy this urge to touch because their “leaves” are fat and firm, and just a bit squishy. I love to gently squeeze succulents, feeling the resistance under my fingers. (By the way, if your succulent is too squishy, it needs water!)
2. Succulents Are Forgiving
With a million things on my to-do list, watering my plants does (occasionally) get missed. While other plants wilt when this happens and look so pathetic that you can almost hear them whimper, succulents just shrug and wait until you remember to direct a few drops of water their way.
3. Succulents are Geometric
I’m big on the wild, unpredictable, organic flow of the garden. Vines that corkscrew their way to the sky, petunias that spread into colorful blankets, gaura that waves like butterflies in the breeze. But clean, crisp geometric forms also enchant me, and this is where succulents have no rival. Many succulents create intricate, repeating geometric forms as they grow, providing a visual interest unlike any other plant.
So go out and get a succulent or two to put on your windowsill! Just remember: nurseries often sell adorable succulents in little one- or two-inch pots. They look so cute that you think, “I’ll just get one more … and one more … and one more …”
At least, that’s what happened to me.
]]>I have a friend who is a just a hoot to be around. Every day when he is getting ready to leave work, he tells his supervisor - "Shuttin' her down boss". I keep hearing those words ringing in my ears as I look at my garden. Doing a few quick cleanup chores now can really feel good and set you up for success in the spring.
Read on for my list of chores and helpful tips if you are going to be 'shuttin' her down' too!
]]>I have a friend who is a just a hoot to be around. Every day when he is getting ready to leave work, he tells his supervisor - "Shuttin' her down boss". I keep hearing those words ringing in my ears as I look at my garden. Here in the Northeast our temperatures have finally fallen to normal levels. Mind you, I am not complaining. We've had a relatively warm fall. And those warm temperatures lulled me into a false sense of security. so I kept putting off my final chores of the season.
But there's no denying that Halloween is upon us and Thanksgiving is just around the corner, so now is a good time tol be doing just that. Here is my list of chores and some helpful tips for you if you are going to be shuttin' her down too!
It's finally time to clean up all of my window box planters and front porch pots. So many times I wait too long, rush because it is cold, and end up just throwing the pots on a heap in my shed.
This year I plan to use a hose nozzle with a good pressure to rinse away most of the dirt and scrub them lightly with a bit of soapy water and a brush. Before putting them in the shed I will allow them to dry in the yard. Making sure your pots are clean and dry before storing helps to cut down on spreading any plant diseases such as powdery mildew that may be lurking about. And finishing this task now will put you one step ahead in the spring.
Investing in the right tools can make your gardening chores go so much quicker and give you more time to relax. And taking a few moments to care for those tools each time you use them will ensure that they last you a good long time. Here are few quick things you can do to care for your tools before storing them for the winter.
If you are lucky to have a garden shed, take some time to clean it out and organize it before the busy holiday season. Likewise if you have an area in your garage devoted to gardening. Hang up as many tools as possible and stack and store your newly cleaned pots. Organize fertilizers, potting soils and, discard ( safely ) any empty chemical containers. Give the shed or garage a good sweeping. Once again taking a few moments now will give you a jump start on the spring planting season.
What about the garden itself, you might ask. Be sure to remove any plants that have shown signs of disease. Do not add them to your compost pile and be sure to clean any tools that touch these plants with a 10% solution of chlorine bleach and water.
Since I generally plant for multiple seasons of interest, I don't really do much dead-heading. I like enjoy the textures created by the spent blossoms and seed pods during the winter. I also leave a thin coating of leaves as a winter mulch in most of our beds. Notice, I said thin, not heavy. We also remove as many leaves as possible from the lawn as a heavy build up can kill the grass.
Add as much compost, grass clippings, and leaves and allow it to rot over the winter. Doing this and turning it a few times during the winter create nutrient rich compost that you can add and easily till in during the spring.
Hope this helps those of you in cold weather areas to 'shut down' your garden. Now it's time to go enjoy a nice hot cup of cocoa or your favorite cocktail.
In fact here's a link to one of my fall favorites the Bulleit Rye Sazerac.
Enjoy!
]]>
In our effort to add really unique perennials and annuals to our gardens, we can overlook the value of shrubs. Maybe it's because they can seem a bit boring.
But shrubs can provide a great filler for larger beds and become a nice backdrop for flowering perennials and annuals. They are an important addition for curb appeal in your front yard. And, can really add to the backyard landscape if chosen for low maintenance and interesting textures and colors.
My favorite reason to grow shrubs is that they can provide multiple seasons of interest.
Read on to find 4 of my favorite shrubs that add color, texture and interest to my yard throughout the year,
I've been writing in my last few blog posts about the benefits of planting in the fall. And this includes planting shrubs as well as grasses and perennials.
In our effort to add really unique perennials and annuals to our gardens, we can overlook the value of shrubs. Maybe it's because they can seem a bit boring. But shrubs can provide a great filler for larger beds and become a nice backdrop for flowering perennials and annuals. Adding shrubs to my backyard in the area in front of my deck, reduced the amount of annuals I needed to plant and care for and provided a nice screen to the open area under the deck.
When I had our front yard professionally landscaped over 20 years ago, I worked with the landscaper to choose shrubs that provided a lot of different textures to compliment the house and the pavers we were installing. We kept the amount of perennials in this area to just enough to add a pop of color and let the shrubs really be the stars.
If you choose shrubs carefully, they can be a low maintenance addition to your landscape. My favorite reason to grow shrubs is that they can provide multiple seasons of interest.
Read on to find out about 4 of my favorite shrubs that add color, texture and interest to my yard.
I bought this plant almost 20 years ago. My friends at work gave me a gift certificate to a garden center as a sympathy gift when my beloved dog (who was also my favorite gardening buddy) passed away. I chose this shrub in his honor.
This plant is extremely cold-hardy to USDA Zone 3. Mine is planted in a corner of a very large bed. Since this plant can grow to 10 ft high and several feet wide it does a great job softening the corner of our garage. During the spring it fills out with green leaves. In summer, white flowers bloom.
For most of the year, it provides a nice backdrop for other plants. But the most compelling reason for planting this shrub is winter interest. In late fall, as the leaves drop, the twigs turn blood red as shown in the photo above. They look gorgeous against a snowy landscape and provide much-needed color at a dreary time of year.
The Beauty Berry comes in many varieties. Callicarpa americana, the American Beauty Berry is native to the United States but is only hardy to Zone 6. So if you live in a colder zone, you'll need to purchase one hardy in your area. I have 3 of these in a cluster in the landscaping at the front corner of my house.
Throughout most of the growing season they are pretty uninteresting. They really shine in the late summer into fall when these beautiful purple berries appear. Well worth the wait.
Wegeila comes in many varieties as well. But 'Wine and Roses' is my favorite. This is the shrub that I have planted along the front of my deck. It is very low maintenance, just requiring a trimming every once in a while in order to keep the plant to the height you want.
In early summer we are treated to these beautiful blooms that last for several weeks. For the rest of the growing season the shrub provides a nice soft screen for the front our our deck.
It may be tempting to plant annuals, most of which flower continuously throughout the summer growing season. But do consider perennials. While many perennials only flower during certain parts of the growing season, layering them with a concentration on bloom times can ensure color throughout the spring, summer and fall.
Because they come back year after year, perennials also increase in size. At some point you can dig them up, divide them and add them to other areas of your garden. With patience you can fill large areas with perennials that, once established, need little care and maintenance.
I like to do is find perennials that I can divide right after I purchase them. This means that a $5 to $10 investment can yield 2-3 plants.
Because fall is such a great time to plant, I also like to shop end-of-season sales at my local home improvement stores.
In September we were visiting the garden center area at our local home improvement store. As we were headed to the checkout I spotted rolling racks of some sad looking Plantain Lillies and Daylillies. I say sad not because the plants weren’t healthy but because the daylily foliage was starting to brown (as they do in the fall) the Plaintain Lillies were looking a little droopy. The plants were originally $10/a piece and were marked down to $5. Score! I have a bed near the edge of our woods that gets partial sun and I knew these would be perfect. I bought 6 containers – 3 of each and headed home with my purchase.
Unfortunately, temperatures were unseasonably warm for the next few weeks, rising into the high 80’s and then the rains came. I nursed my plants along by keeping them in the shade of my garage. Finally, a nice sunny and cool day arrived. Perfect planting weather.
I was able to divide my 6 plants into 13 which brought my cost down to around $2.30 per plant. I then planted my finds, spreading them over a pretty large area.
Follow these simple directions to divide newly purchased perennials and get the most out of your investment.
Here are some of mine after I divided them.
That’s it! Here are several of mine after I finished planting.
The whole process took me about 30 minutes. While you can certainly do this in the spring, planting in the fall allows the plants to put their energy into developing the root system.
Happy Planting!
]]>Perennials are one of the most popular types of flowering plants, both for the beginning and experienced gardeners. And fall is a great time to plant them.
But there are so many varieties, choosing can be overwhelming.
Read on to find out about some of the most popular varieties to plant and how to get started.
]]>In addition, perennials come in every color of the rainbow, and in all shapes and sizes, making them a great choice for any garden. What makes perennials special, however, is their ability to come back year after year. While the actual life span of a perennial will vary from species to species and planting to planting, some types of perennials have been known to last for decades.
Fall is a great time to plant perennials, especially in colder climates. Planting them now allows the roots to get established while the rest of the plant is dormant during the winter. Plants put a lot of energy into leaf and flower production in the spring and summer, so while you can plant perennials in the spring fall is an even better time.
Perennials can be used anywhere in the garden, and anywhere around the home as well. Many varieties of perennials are great as landscape plantings, and their ability to regenerate makes them perfect for areas of the garden that are hard to reach. Using perennials to line a driveway, surround a flagpole or accent a front porch is a great idea for any gardener.
In fact, the hardest part of perennials for many gardeners is choosing the right ones. There are so many different perennials at your local garden center that it can be difficult to choose the right ones.
Here are a few tips on what to know before selecting your plants so that you can get the right perennial for your particular spot.
If you are unsure, just check with your local garden center before buying. They should be able to recommend the right plants for you.
Getting Started
Below is starter list of some of the most popular easy-care perennials for the home garden, as well as some brief care tips.
Name: Achillea
Common name: Yarrow
Needs: Full sun, moderate water (less watering once fully established)
Name: Anemone
Common name: Japanese Anemone
Needs: Partial shade, regular watering
Name: Aster
Common name: New England Aster
Needs: Full sun, partial shade in hot climates, regular watering
Name: Astilbe
Needs: Partial to full shade (some sun OK in cool climates, regular watering
Name: Chrysanthemum
Common name: Shasta Daisy
Needs: Full sun, partial shade in hot climates, regular watering
Name: Coreopsis
Common name: Threadleaf Coreopsis
Needs: Full sun, moderate to little watering
Name: Delphinium
Needs: Full sun, regular watering
Name: Echinacea
Common name: Purple Coneflower
Needs: Full sun, moderate watering
Name: Geranium
Common name: Geranium
Needs: Full sun or partial shade. Must have afternoon shade in hot climates. Regular watering
Name: Helleborus
Common name: Lenten Rose
Needs: Full sun in winter; partial to full shade in spring, summer and fall. Regular watering
Name: Nepeta
Common name: Catmint
Needs: Full sun, moderate watering
Name: Paeonia
Common name: Peony
Needs: Full sun, partial shade in hot climates, regular watering
Name: Papaver
Common name: Oriental Poppy
Needs: Full sun, regular to moderate watering
Name: Penstemon
Common name: Beard Tongue
Needs: Full sun; light shade in hot climates. Regular watering.
Name: Phlox
Common name: Summer Phlox
Needs: Full sun. Flowers may fade in hot climates. Needs regular watering.
Name: Rudbeckia
Common name: Black-Eyed Susan
Needs: Full sun. Regular to moderate watering.
Name: Salvia
Needs: Full sun. Regular watering.
Name: Sedum
Common name: Autumn Joy
Needs: Full sun or partial shade. Moderate to little watering.
Name: Veronica
Needs: Full sun. Regular watering.
Happy Planting!
]]>
Fall is definitely a great time for planting. As we decide on what to plant, most of us think of flowering perennials, trees and shrubs. But as you consider your choices, consider perennial grasses.
Read on to find out why ornamental grasses are a great addition to any landscape.
]]>
Here are 3 reasons to use grasses to enhance your landscape.
1. They can help to soften or hide unwanted hard elements in the landscape.
In the photo above, you can see the grass added to soften a hardscape element. We have an above ground propane tank that provides fuel for our fireplace. Planting 3 Striped Zebra Grasses (Miscanthus sinensis ‘Zebrinus’) hides the tank quiet well and softens the entire view.
2. They can provide an accent or backdrop to a garden bed.
Grasses can grow quite large and provide a natural “wall” at the edge of bed
We’ve used another Miscanthus at the rear of a deep garden bed to creates a border at the edge of our woods. The grass also softens the edge of our shed in this area.
3. They provide interest throughout the fall and winter.
Because the grasses bloom in late summer, they provide interest at a time when other plants are no longer flowering. I like to leave the plumes in place for wonderful winter interest.
Getting Started
So how do you get started? First, be sure to know your hardiness zone. Not all grasses grow everywhere. You can do your research on which grasses you want to grow before going to the nursery or enlist the staff’s help before you get there. They should be able to tell you which grasses are hardy in your area. While you can plant grasses as annuals, you will get much more value for your money by planting grasses that come back year after year. A few things to note - be sure to know how much sunlight the spot receives during the day and the size of the space.
Some grasses can grow quite large both in height and span a large area quickly. Others grow more slowly. Take a quick measurement of your spot before going shopping.
Caring for Your Grasses
Most ornamental grasses are pretty tough. Be sure to check with the nursery on care tips for the type of grass you purchase. Most of the larger grasses do well with cutting all of the way back to a low mound in spring. It’s important to remove the previous season’s growth to ensure good growth throughout the spring and summer.
Grasses are a great addition to any garden. Try planting a few this fall to add interest and texture to your landscape.
]]>
Fall is a great time for gardening. Cool temperatures make for a great climate for both gardeners and new plants. While it may be tempting to put away your tools and forget about gardening until spring, fall is the perfect time to plant for spring color. And one of the most colorful spring plants that do need to be planted now are spring flowering bulbs.
Read on to find out how to plant bulbs this fall for spectacular color next spring.
]]>While it may be tempting to put away your tools and forget about gardening until spring, fall is the perfect time to plant for spring color. And one of the most colorful spring plants that do need to be planted in the fall are spring flowering bulbs.
Bulbs have been among the most popular types of flowers for many, many years. Tulip bulbs were once so popular in Holland that a single bulb was worth more than an entire herd of cows. Tulip Mania as it was popularly called, is widely seen to be the first example of a market bubble.
So while you may be weary from all of your summer gardening chores, I hope the picture above inspires you to plant bulbs this fall. I know that I have often decided not to plant bulbs in the fall, only to be envious of folks who had this pop of color in their landscapes in early spring.
And even though Tulip Mania is long past, bulbs are still beautiful and useful plants for the home gardener. Bulbs are renowned for their hardiness and for their ability to re-bloom season after season. In addition, most bulb flowers are very easy to grow and very inexpensive to buy. With all these advantages, it is easy to see why bulbs are so popular with all kinds of gardeners.
Most types of bulbs should be planted in the fall of the year, but it is important to get planting instructions when you buy your bulbs. There are some bulbs that bloom in the fall of the year, and they are usually planted in the springtime instead.
Before you choose your bulbs, take a look at the area where you want to plant. It is important to know how much sunlight the area receives and whether the soil in the area tends to be very wet, dry or somewhere in between. Most bulbs prefer partial to full sun and moist loamy soil, but it is very important to check individual bulbs for their requirements.
So where do you buy bulbs? First, there are lots of on-line resources like Michigan Bulb Company or Brecks. You can browse on-line and from the descriptions be sure that the bulbs you order will work in your site. You can also request a free physical catalog. I used to love getting these before we started to do everything on-line. It was fun to browse and plan from these colorful resources.
One word of caution – if you haven’t planted bulbs before it’s easy to get carried away by the beautiful pictures in the catalogs. Start small so you know how much time and effort you can put into this task.
Another great resource is your local garden center. The advantage of buying locally is that the garden center should be carrying bulbs that do well in your area. Additionally the staff should be able to assist you with selection and best practices in planting your bulbs.
When choosing bulbs for planting it is important to choose healthy ones. The best way to choose healthy bulbs is to choose the firmest, largest bulbs you can find. Firm bulbs are generally very healthy bulbs, and large bulbs typically produce the largest and best blooming flowers.
Unhealthy bulbs are generally very easy to spot as well. Bulbs that are very light, cracked or soft should be avoided. Many bulbs are susceptible to rot, and a soft bulb may be showing signs of rot. In addition, a lightweight or shriveled looking bulb may be unable to bloom. A good, healthy bulb will be surprisingly heavy for its size, so it is important to handle the bulbs to choose the best ones.
When planting bulbs in the fall, they should be planted around early to mid-October. The goal is to have the bulbs in the ground around six weeks prior to the time the ground starts to freeze. This means that the optimum time for planting bulbs will vary according to your own location.
It is important to plant bulbs in a soil that has been properly prepared. The depth the bulbs should be planted will vary from variety to variety, so again it is important to get planting instructions if you are unfamiliar with the needs of the bulb. For instance, crocus bulbs should be planted four inches deep, while daffodils and hyacinths need to be planted to a depth of six inches. Tulips should be planted even deeper, to a depth of about eight inches.
One great tool to have on hand when working with bulbs is the bulb planter or trowel with depth markings. Either of these tools can help you to plant your bulbs at the correct depth.
Gardeners who want a more wild and natural look to their bulb garden often prefer to dig a trench to the appropriate depth and simply lay the bulbs in. This approach can provide a unique, if somewhat unpredictable, look when the bulbs begin to emerge.
When you plant your bulbs, it is a good idea to lay a small amount of fertilizer in the bottom of each hole, then cover that fertilizer with a layer of soil. The fertilizer provides much needed nutrients for the bulb to start its growth, but it is important that the bulb not make direct contact with the fertilizer, since this could potentially cause the bulb to be burned.
Bulbs should always be planted with the pointed end sticking up and the flat side pointing down, directly on top of the layer of soil covering the fertilizer. After the bulbs have been planted, they should be covered with more soil and provided with a good, thorough watering.
I hope this article inspires you to start planning for planting your spring flowering bulbs now. This easy fall chore will provide beautiful spring color after the dreariness of winter.
Do you include spring flowering bulbs in your garden? Comment below and let us know your experiences. We love to hear from you!
Happy Fall Planting!
]]>
Fall is a great time to prepare for spring! You see there are so many things going on in the garden in the spring, that it’s almost too much to get done. And while spring is a really inspiring time to start new things in the garden, fall is actually a better time for certain garden tasks.
Read on for details on 5 Fall Projects that you can do in the fall to make spring gardening season a lot easier.
]]>Cooler weather has finally arrived and fall is in the air. Here in Pennsylvania, fall is a wonderful time. It’s probably my favorite season. The temperatures are moderate during the day and the cool nights make for wonderful sleeping weather.
Now I hate to rush the seasons – the fact that Christmas decorations are already starting to appear in stores drives me crazy. But….
Fall is also a great time to prepare for spring! You see there are so many things going on in the garden in the spring, that there is almost too much to get done. And while spring is a really inspiring time to start new things in the garden, fall is actually a better time for certain garden tasks.
If you are still looking to enjoy working in your garden, but aren’t sure where to start (especially if you live in a climate where colder temperatures are fast approaching) here are 5 Fall Projects that you can do in the fall to make spring gardening season a lot easier. And a few of these are actually best done in the fall rather than the spring.
1. Create a New Garden Bed: Fall is a great time to prepare an area for a new bed. Check out my previous blog post on exactly how to do this: Creating a New Garden Bed - The Easy Way. Prepping the bed now allows the nutrients you add to really get into the soil. And in the spring, the bed will be ready for you to do the fun, creative part of this process – planting your plants.
2. Plant New Shrubs and Perennials: The "Fall is for Planting" signs you see around garden centers are not just part of a marketing ploy so that shops can get more sales before winter hits. Fall truly is the best time to plant new trees, shrubs and perennials. Why? Because in the spring the plants are putting their energy into producing more foliage, flowers, and seeds. In the fall, as the plants hunker down for winter, all of the energy goes into the roots. By planting in the fall, you give the plants their best chance to get established. So get creative, pickup those plants you’ve been meaning to plant and just did not get the chance to in the spring. Talk to your local nurseryman about the best soil amendments for your choices and be sure to keep the newly planted plants well-watered. And, of course, check out any plant sales or auctions where you can pick plants up for less money as vendors reduce their stock!
3. Divide Perennials: One of my favorite things about perennials is that many of them ‘make more’. Dig them up, divide them at the root ball and either add them to other areas of your yard or share them with friends! Fall is great time to do this for the same reason as planting new plants – it gives the perennials time to establish their root systems before needing to put more energy into foliage and flower growth. Check on-line to see which of your perennials will benefit from division and how to divide each one. If you’ve been wanting to add more plants to an existing bed, this is a great way to do it.
4. Plant Bulbs for Early Spring Color: This is on task that isn’t just a good idea to do now. Spring flowering bulbs need to be planted in the fall in order to be ready to show off their colors in the spring. Like all other plants, some bulbs do better in shade and some do better in spring. Be sure to check out each one’s requirements and pick the right ones for the right spot. Also, it’s important to check each bulb’s soil depth requirements and be sure to follow them. Bulbs give the most impact when planted en mass. If you’ve never planted them before, pick a small area in your garden and then visit your local garden center and ask for help in picking out a variety that should work well for your site. Then buy 10-12 bulbs and plant them in a grouping and see how you like the effect.
5. Install a Soaker Hose: Watering can be a real chore in the summer, especially if you have a newly planted area. One of the best ways to save time and save water is to install a soaker hose in new beds and around new plantings. Check out my previous post on how to do this here: Spending Too Much Time Watering. A few years back, I had a professional landscaping company do a new project in my front yard. One of the things I required was that they install soaker hose for me. Then I could simply walk out to my front porch, hook the soaker hose to my hose bid, turn on the water and come back an hour later knowing that my new plants were getting the water they needed. I did not lose any of my plants and I attribute the success of this project to my soaker hose.
This is a great project to do when you are planting new shrubs or perennials as I suggested above. Set out the plants in a design you like and then lay out the soaker hose around the plants like I did in the bed shown below.
Plant your plants and secure the soaker hose with landscape staples. Then cover the hose and other areas of the bed with a nice layer of mulch. You can use the soaker hose to be sure that your new plantings get enough water. (And don’t forget to disconnect the hose before freezing temperatures arrive!)
Sometimes after a busy spring and summer of gardening, it’s tempting to close down things early. I hope that this blog post gives you some inspiration and that you can find time to continue to enjoy your garden through the fall. By doing some of these projects, you’ll get a jump on spring gardening and be rewarded with well-established plants and new beds!
What’s your favorite fall gardening project? Comment Below and fill us in – we’d love to hear your ideas!
]]>Gourds are one of my favorite parts of fall! From the classic orange pumpkin to the weirdest wart-covered wonder, I love them all. Setting up my “gourd décor” each year is a special event, since it gives so much scope for the imagination.
Read on to find out how Paula Marolewski uses gourds all throughout her fall landscape!
]]>Gourds are one of my favorite parts of fall! From the classic orange pumpkin to the weirdest wart-covered wonder, I love them all. Setting up my “gourd décor” each year is a special event, since it gives so much scope for the imagination.
If you have a bit of space, consider showcasing the incredible variety of gourds.
Gourds of different shapes, sizes, and colors can be put next to each other for dramatic effect.
You can also achieve visual impact by piling together many of the same type of gourd.
If you don’t have much space, don’t despair! A single gourd artfully placed amidst some straw is very striking.
And don’t forget to include other “signs of fall” – Indian corn, chrysanthemums, and flowering kale can add visual interest to your display … as does the occasional furry friend!
]]>And if you've grown herbs you probably have a lot of wonderful foliage on your plants. So what’s a gardener to do with all of this beautiful herb foliage?
Happily there are lots of ways to preserve your herbs for use during the cold of winter.
Read on to find out how!
]]>Fast forward to today when I have a more limited amount of time to tend to my gardens, I’ve reduced the number of herbs I grow to a few favorites that I know I will use in cooking. I grow them in window boxes for easy care and access. In case you missed it you can learn about my 8 favorite herbs to grow in this article. If you’re new to herb gardening, I recommend that you start with these as they are very easy to grow, especially if you are growing them in containers.
If you’re like me, when fall rolls around and frost is on the horizon, you hate to just throw the plants away. So what’s a gardener to do with all of this beautiful herb foliage? Happily there are lots of ways to preserve your herbs for use during the cold of winter.
General Tips for Preserving Herbs
Drying
If you have the space, drying herbs is a great option. This works great for herbs like oregano, sage, rosemary, parsley and thyme. Simply harvest small bundles and tie with a rubber band. Hang them in a dry area with good ventilation. Do not dry them in the sunlight as this will diminish the flavor.
For more tender herbs like basil and mint that have a higher moisture content can mold is you are not careful. Tie in small bunches and place in a paper bag with a few holes. Hang them upside down where air currents can pass through the holes in the bag and the paper bag will catch any falling leaves or seeds.
For all of the above, when the leaves are dry you can put the whole stems in air tight containers and store in a cool dark place. Crush only the amount you need when you are ready to use them. You can also remove the leaves from the stem and crush before storing to save time when cooking. Dried herbs are 3-4 times stronger than fresh so be sure to only use 1/4 to 1/3 of the amount in the recipe if the recipe is calling for fresh herbs.
Another way to dry your herbs is to use a dehydrator shortening the drying time to only a few hours. Check your dehydrator manual for instructions on how to do this including drying temperature and times.
Freezing
You can freeze more herbs but there a few that choose to preserve this way rather than drying. They are basil, mint, dill and chives.
For the chives, simply chop the stems. For other herbs remove the herbs from the stems and chop. Fill ice cube trays ½ full of water. Add the herbs and push them down into the water as far as possible. When the cubes are frozen solid add more water to top off the cube. Return to the freezer until frozen solid. Then pop the cubes out of the trays and store in freezer bags. Label and date each bag.
You can then add these cubes in soups, stews, etc. You use these in the same amounts as fresh herbs.
You can also freeze herbs in oil. Use a neutral flavored oil like canola oil and mix 1/3 to 1/3 cup of oil to 2 cups of chopped herbs. This mixture can be frozen in ice cube trays and then stored in bags as above or in small glass jars. You can also freeze this mixture by placing a thin layer in a freezer bag with 1/2 “ of open space. Squeeze out the excess air before sealing completely and then lay the bag flat on a cooking sheet and place in the freezer until frozen solid. Cut or break off what you need when you are ready to cook.
Please note: Oil should only be added to herbs if it will be frozen. Do not store herbs in oil at room temperature.
Herb Butters
Another great way to store fresh herbs is to make herbal butters. This works particularly well for herbs like chives, parsley, cilantro and tarragon. Wash, dry and chop your fresh herbs. Then mix the chopped herbs with room temperature butter. This mixture can be stored in the refrigerator for a few days. For longer storage roll the herb butter into a log in waxed paper and then place inside of a plastic freezer bag. Label and date the bag and be sure to use within 4-6 months.
Herbal Vinegars
Another great way to preserve the flavor of your herbs is to create vinegar extracts. The flavor of the herbs is extracted into the vinegar adds flavoring to soups and sauces as well as salad dressings. Since the vinegars themselves have their own flavors, you experiment which vinegars you use with which herbs to create your extracts. Whatever vinegar you choose be sure that the acidity is at least 5%.
As with all other preservation methods be sure the thorough was and dry your herbs. Leaving water on the herbs can dilute the vinegar and cause bacterial growth in your extract. You can use fresh or dried herbs but don’t use frozen as they will have a higher water content.
If you are using fresh herbs, use a ratio of 2:1 vinegar to herbs. If you are using dried herbs, just a few tablespoons of the herbs per pint jar should be enough. Because vinegar is acidic avoid metal tools and plastic storage containers for this process. Glass jars work best. Sterilize them by submerging them and boiling then in water for 10 minutes.
Roughly chop your herbs and place in each glass container. Add the correct amount of vinegar to about ½ “ from the top. Cover the top of the jar with parchment paper and secure with a rubber band. Put in a cool dark place and allow to extract for 2-4 weeks. When the time is up, pour the vinegar through a fine mesh strainer and push on the herbs to release as much of the vinegar as possible from the plant material. A large glass measuring cup works well to strain your vinegar into. Next pour into small bottles, cork, label and date.
I hope all of these herbal preservation methods have given you a few good ideas on how to preserve your herbal harvest. Have you tried preserving herbs? What is your favorite way to preserve their wonderful flavors to use throughout the year?
Please comment below about your herbal preservation experiences - we'd love to hear from you!
]]>I love this time of year! We are so blessed with the bounty of summer fruits and vegetables. I hope that you are finding delicious ways to enjoy them!
But we are also faced with the resulting peels and pits that many times end up in our trash. According to the EPA “The estimated 35.3 million tons of wasted food that went to landfills in 2018 represents 24.1 percent of all MSW landfilled.” Somehow that just doesn’t make sense, since all of this organic waste can quickly break down and return lots of nutrients to the soil.
So what’s a home gardener to do? Composting your kitchen and garden waste is a great way to reduce the amount of waste you dispose of in the trash. By composting, you can generate a free source of nutrient-rich material to help improve your garden.
Read on to find out how to get started!
]]>But we are also faced with the resulting peels and pits that many times end up in our trash. According to the EPA “The estimated 35.3 million tons of wasted food that went to landfills in 2018 represents 24.1 percent of all MSW landfilled.” Somehow that just doesn’t make sense, since all of this organic waste can quickly break down and return lots of nutrients to the soil.
So what’s a home gardener to do? Composting your kitchen and garden waste is a great way to reduce the amount of waste you dispose of in the trash. By composting, you can generate a free source of nutrient-rich material to help improve your garden.
Read on to find out how to get started!
The first step is to decide where to position the compost bin or pile, which can affect the overall quality of the compost that is produced. For best results place it in a well-drained area which has good access to sunlight. The drainage will enable excess water to drain out of the compost and placing the bin in a sunny spot helps to speed up the composting process.
You can either purchase a compost bin or you can make your own. Compost bins can be bought from the majority of garden centers or on-line and they come in a variety of shapes and sizes. Or you can do what I did and simply have a compost pile at a secluded edge of your property.
Successful composting needs the best ingredients. There are lots of everyday waste items from your garden and kitchen that can go into your compost bin. These are broken down into “Greens” and “Browns”.
Greens are the type of items that provide moisture and nitrogen and are quick to rot. Items classed as Greens includes:
Grass cuttings
Vegetable peelings
Green Leaves
Fruit
Tea bags
Browns are waste items that take longer to rot but provide pockets of air, along with fiber and carbon. This includes items such as:
Cardboard boxes
Newspapers (scrunched up)
Toilet roll tubes
Egg shells (crushed)
Shredded paper
Dry brown leaves
Twigs
There are some organic materials that should not be added to the compost pile. Bad composting materials include: diseased plants, weeds with seed heads, invasive weeds, pet feces, dead animals, bread and grains, meat or fish parts, dairy products, grease, cooking oil, or oily foods.
Don’t Add Products Labelled Compostable or Biodegradable
Please note that I did not mention compostable food containers and packaging or biodegradable items like diapers in my list of items to add to your compost pile. Packaging that is labelled as compostable means that it will break down in an industrial composting setting. Residential compost piles do not reach the temperatures needed to breakdown these products.
When a product is called biodegradable it means that it will break down in a landfill over time. While thisis a good thing, the key here is that we don’t know how long it will take them to break down. These also are not suitable to add to your compost pile.
To make a good quality compost it is important to use a good mix of both 'green' and 'brown' wastes. Microorganisms are tiny forms of plant and animal life, which break down organic material. A small amount of garden soil or manure supplies adequate microorganisms. The air, nitrogen, and water offer an encouraging environment for the microorganisms to produce your compost. Air is the one ingredient which you can’t have too much of. Too much nitrogen can kill microbes; too much water causes insufficient air in the pile.
If microorganisms have more surface area to feed off of, the materials will decompose faster. Chopping your organic materials with a machete, or using a shredder or lawnmower to shred materials will help them break down faster.
The compost pile is your oven. Compost piles catch heat created by the activity of millions of microorganisms. The minimum size for hot, fast composting is a 3-foot by 3-foot by 3-foot. Piles that are wider or taller than 5 feet don't permit enough air to reach the microorganisms at the center.
Your compost pile’s microorganisms work their hardest when the materials have about the moistness of a wrung-out sponge and as many air passages. The air in the pile is usually consumed faster than the moisture, so the pile should be turned or mixed up now and then to add more air; this maintains high temperatures and controls odor. Use a pitchfork, rake, or other garden tool can to turn materials with.
It is simply a case of monitoring the compost and adding more waste depending on the look of the compost. For example, if it looks too dry add more green waste, and if it looks too wet add more brown waste.
This will vary depending on the mixture of waste that is placed into the compost bin, the surrounding conditions and the weather. In general, it should take between 6 and 9 months for your finished compost to be ready to use.
Composting Services
So what should you do if you don’t have the space for a compost pile or the time to properly attend to it? Many municipalities have services that will pick up yard waste. Some then provide composted materials for residents to use in their gardens. For food waste, there are paid for services that will provide home owners with a bucket to store food scraps and then pick up on a regular basis. If you live in SE PA check out services like Mother Compost.
Want to learn more about composting? My friend Gwenn over at Mother Compost is a composting guru. She and her team have put together an on-line course called Compost Coach. She also does consulting to help people who have more in-depth questions or are having problems with their compost piles.
Do you compost or are you looking to get started? Comment below and let us know about your composting experiences! We’d love to hear from you!
]]>While most of us think of spring as the time to plant, fall is an even better time to plan out garden beds and plant shrubs and perennials. Spring is a time when plants put all of their energy into growing foliage and the flowers and seeds necessary to reproduce. Fall is a time when plants put their energy into their roots and getting ready for winter survival. So planting in the fall allows plants to establish their roots and be ready for spring.
So while you may be all gardened out for the year, planting a few plants in the fall will help you get a jump on spring. In future posts, I’ll outline my favorite fall gardening chores you can do as the temperatures fall.
The fall is also a great time to create a new garden bed. You might be thinking – that’s a lot of work to dig out a new bed. And yes, it can be a daunting task to completely dig out a new bed, especially if you are doing this in what is now a grassy area. I’ve done this in the past, with my ex-husband and brother-in-law digging and using a rototiller to dig up and till our rocky clay Pennsylvania soil. It was a very time consuming and back breaking task.
Below is a photo of part of the finished bed. The work was definitely worth it.
Since then I’ve learned a much easier way to do this. And instead of back breaking work, you can put your time into planning what you will do with your bed. Before you jump in and use the steps I outline below to create your new garden bed, take a few minutes to really think about it and how you are going to use it.
When I moved to my 2+ acre property in the woods, all I saw was lots of space to create and design new beds. And the ones we created were beautiful. However, the work to maintain what I created, grew exponentially. I did find that enjoyed the planning much more than the maintenance. As I got older and wanted to explore other hobbies, that maintenance took away from time I wanted to spend on other things. In fact my new significant other and I removed some of the beds that were there when I bought the property but really did not serve a purpose. And our property still required 11 yards of mulch to mulch all of the beds!
So first, think about what you are doing with this new bed. Perhaps it’s a vegetable garden to grow food or an herb garden to grow your favorite herbs for cooking. Maybe you’ve always dreamed of a cottage garden with flowers for cutting. Or perhaps you are adding landscaping with shrubs and a few flowering plants to accent your home and add curb appeal. Whatever the reason, make sure you have a reason that will stand the test of time and make the added maintenance worthwhile to you.
Next, take a look at the amount of sun that the area receives. Vegetable and many popular flowering perennials need full sun so be sure to take a look at the plants that you are looking to put in this area to be sure they will work well with the amount of sun the area receives.
If you are still ready to start your new bed, take a look at the new method I discovered. My method uses some very simple steps to create a bed that is ready for spring planting. Read on to find out how to create a new garden bed The Easy Way!
Step 1 Lay Out the Design
Find an old length of hose in your garden shed or garage and use it to outline your new planting area. I recommend an old length if you are going to use paint to make the edge. If you are going to follow my suggestion below and use sand or flour, you can use any hose that you have available. This trick is very useful if you are going to have a curved edge to the bed, so the more flexible the hose, the better. Using the hose allows you to play with your design until you have it just right. IMPORTANT TIP: When creating beds with curved lines, be sure to consider that you will need to mow around them. Tight curves might be aesthetically pleasing but they can be difficult and time-consuming to mow. Make sure that your design allows for easy mowing.)
Step 2 Mark the Edge of Your New Bed
When you are happy with your design, mark the edge with sand or flour and then remove the hose. Next, edge the area with a spade, shovel or edging tool. You can simply do a quick outline or you can completely dig the edge. To prevent grass from growing back into the bed, the edge should be about 8" deep and several inches wide.
Step 3 Cover and Amend
If your new bed is currently covered in grass, mow the grassy area and cover it with cardboard. This is a great way to recycle those Amazon boxes! Next add top soil, compost and other organic material like grass clippings, leaf mulch, etc. on top of the cardboard.
Step 4 Relax and Wait!
Allow the new bed to sit until spring and let nature do your work for you. The grass underneath the cardboard will die and the organic material you have added will have a chance to compost over the winter.
That's it! When spring arrives you can till the bed and compost to get the bed ready for planting. But for now, enjoy the fall knowing that you got a major jump on your spring gardening chores!
Are you planning a new garden bed this fall? How do you like to create your new beds? Comment below and let us know your thoughts – we’d love to hear from you!
]]>