Yes, You Can Plant Something in March. Here’s Where to Start.

Every March, I get the same question.

“Can I plant anything yet?”

And every March, I give the same answer: yes. But let’s talk about what.

Because March is one of those months that sits in a funny in-between place. It’s not winter. It’s not quite spring. And if you’re the kind of gardener who’s been eyeing the perennial section at the garden center since February, the temptation to just start planting is real.

I get it. I’ve been that gardener.

But March planting is not the free-for-all it can feel like on a warm day. There are plants that genuinely benefit from going in the ground now, and plants that will suffer for it. Knowing the difference is what sets up your whole season.

So let’s go through it.

⛔  First: Why March Is Not the Time for Annuals

I want to say this clearly, because garden centers in March are full of beautiful things that will absolutely make you want to buy them.

Annuals need warmth. Not just warm days, but consistently warm nights, warm soil, and no risk of frost. In most of the country, March does not reliably offer any of those things.

Planting annuals too early does one of two things. Either they sit in cold soil and sulk — not dying, but not growing either, burning up energy reserves just trying to survive. Or they get hit by a late frost and you lose them entirely. Either way, the plants you put in at the right time in May will outperform the ones you rushed in March within a matter of weeks.

It feels faster to start early. It rarely is.

“I’ve rushed the start of spring more times than I can count. It never saves time. It just moves the problem to May.”  — Donna

If you’re not sure of your last frost date, a quick search for your zip code will tell you. In SE Pennsylvania, where I garden, that’s typically mid-May. Plan accordingly.

✅  What You Can Plant: Perennials Are Your March Move

Here’s the good news. Perennials are built for this. Unlike annuals, which need warmth to establish, many perennials actually prefer to go in during cool weather. Their roots settle in while the soil is moist and temperatures are mild, setting them up for a strong first growing season.

March is genuinely one of the best times to plant perennials — if your soil is ready. And if you’ve been following along these past few weeks, you already know how to check that. The squeeze test from the soil prep post will tell you. If it’s still holding together in a clump that won’t crumble, give it another week. If it breaks apart easily, you’re good to go.

One thing to keep in mind: even cold-tolerant perennials need a couple of days to settle in before a hard frost. Check your forecast for the week after planting. If temperatures below 28°F are coming, wait a few more days or be ready to cover new plantings overnight.

✂️  The Free Plants in Your Garden: Dividing Perennials

Before you spend a dollar at the garden center, walk your garden.

Many of your established perennials are ready — and often overdue — to be divided. And dividing them in early spring, just as they’re beginning to emerge, is the ideal time to do it. The plant has energy reserves from last season, the soil is workable, and there’s still time for the divisions to establish before summer heat arrives.

Signs a perennial is ready to divide:

•  It’s getting crowded and the centre of the clump is dying out or looking sparse

•  Blooms have decreased over the past season or two

•  The clump is noticeably larger than it was a couple of years ago

•  You want more of it in another part of the garden

How to do it:

✔  Use a garden fork or spade to lift the entire clump from the ground

✔  Work from the outside in — the outer sections are the most vigorous

✔  Divide into sections with at least 3–5 healthy shoots or eyes each

✔  Replant at the same depth as the original, firm the soil, and water well

✔  Pot up extras to share with neighbors or keep as backups

Perennials that divide especially well in early spring: hostas, daylilies, coneflowers, black-eyed Susans, ornamental grasses, astilbe, and bee balm.

This is one of the most satisfying things you can do in the early spring garden. Free plants, a tidier bed, and a healthier clump going into the season. It’s a win on every level.

🌱  Buying New Perennials: How to Choose Well

If you’re buying new perennials this month, a little intention goes a long way. It’s very easy to fall in love with a beautiful pot and get home to realize it’s a zone 7 plant that will struggle in your zone 6 garden.

Here’s how to choose well:

✔  Know your hardiness zone before you go. Here’s where to go to find out: https://planthardiness.ars.usda.gov/. The plant tag should list the zones it’s hardy in.

✔  Check sun requirements honestly — not what you’d like them to be. ‘Full sun’ means 6+ hours of direct sun. ‘Part shade’ means 3–4 hours. A full sun plant in a shady spot will sulk for years.

✔  Look at the roots, not just the top — gently tip the pot. Roots should be visible but not tightly circling. Avoid anything root-bound.

✔  Smaller is often better — a modest-sized plant in good condition will often outperform an overgrown pot-bound specimen within one season. If I do buy a larger plant, it’s because I see multiple main stems and know that I can easily divide and get more plants for my money.

✔  Buy for your conditions, not for the photo on the tag. A plant that suits your soil and light will always outperform a beautiful plant that’s fighting your garden.

And a note on planning: if you’re buying perennials this spring without a clear sense of where things are going or how your beds will look together, that’s something worth spending a little time on. I’ve got a waitlist open right now for my Garden Planning Made Easy course — it’s the thing I wish I’d had when I was starting out. More on that below.

🛠️  A Quick Note on Tools

Dividing and planting perennials is some of the most hands-on work you’ll do all season. Good tools make the difference between a clean, easy experience and a frustrating one — especially if you’re working with clay soil or tight root balls.

Our 3-Piece Lightweight Garden Tool Set has the three tools you’ll reach for most this month: a trowel for digging planting holes, a transplanter for setting plants in at the right depth, and a cultivator for loosening the soil around new plantings. Rust-proof aluminum, ergonomic handles, and they come with a garden apron to keep everything together.

If you’ve been making do with whatever’s in the shed, this is the upgrade that makes March gardening actually enjoyable. Shop the set here.

🌿  Start Small. Start Now.

March planting doesn’t have to be a big project. One new perennial in a spot you’ve been meaning to fill. One overgrown clump of daylilies divided and spread out. One bed that gets a little attention before the main season rush begins.

That’s how a garden improves. Not in one heroic weekend in May. In small, good decisions made at the right time.

Your soil is waking up. Your perennials are ready. And so are you.

Happy gardening — and relaxing. 🌱

Ready to go deeper?

Also worth reading this week:

→  Don’t Work Wet Soil This Spring — the squeeze test that tells you when your soil is ready

→  Do You Really Need a Soil Test? — honest answer + how to read your results 

→  6 Garden Planning Mistakes That Stop Beginners — a practical guide to planning that actually works